Salomon 977 Equipe Binding Adjustment (Tech won’t touch)

[RetroSkier]

I know they’re not indemnified.

I’ve recently skied on them with no issue.

I want to shorten them to fit my “new to me” ski boots.

I’ve found 1 article that explained about adjusting Z type ? bindings and that seemed to match these a fair bit but then I also saw another article mention forward pressure being set with a rear screw in a similar way that the front screw sets DIN pressure.

Tech was nice enough to tell me about forward pressure and to look up youtube videos… those videos appear scarce for these bindings.


Simply looking for clear instructions on how to adjust this.

Eventually I may invest in shaped skis with newer bindings but I’m still enjoying my vintage dynastars.

 

[Philpug]

Thats the demo version. I beleive that had a hoop bar if the back that you would lift up. It has a ton of delta and i wouldnt

 

[RetroSkier]

Too late, I already did. Also realized the toe on my SX70’s was way more worn than I thought. Could easily fit and remove a credit card from under the toe, but could not do that with the 92’s


No hoop, tab that lifts and locks.

Instructions I found were for Z style heels but seemed to work for this,

Not sure what markers the instructions I found were referring to, binding made a solid click when shifted into position and seem to be at 26 open and 28 closed on each ski.

Minimal adjustment on toe height using folded piece of paper as temporary gauge.


Does this look correct ?

Leave it alone ?
move it forward ?
move it back ?

Not fastened:

Locked in:

2nd ski: Not Fastened;

2nd Ski locked in:

I think it moved 1 or 2 tabs/clicks forward at the most. Not familiar with delta, I just know that I’m familiar with these bindings and how they feel although that may change after skiing them on new boots.

How can you tell they’re the demo version ?

What is delta ?

Thanks again for the replies and advice.

sx70 sole

sx92 sole

rough side by side comparison.

 

[cantunamunch]

The numerically indexed heel track is the instant giveaway of a demo binding.

Delta is the vertical difference between the bottom of the toe lug and the bottom of the heel lug when clicked in to the binding.

The instructions you found were not for marker but for a later, different design, Salomon binding. The only similarity between the two is in the demo track.

 

[RetroSkier]

Good to know.

This was one of my main references for adjusting the binding.

How To Adjust Your Salomon Ski Bindings

***Disclaimer*** It is best and we recommend having your skis adjusted and mounted by a professional technician at a ski shop. Your safety...

theskimonster.com

When I said “markers” I was talking about indicators/guides to show the bindings were properly set or within an acceptable range. The only clear reason indication I saw was a very audible click when moving them on the rail.

Difference between demo units and retail ?
Just curious as I’ve skied these bindings for years without incident and this is the first time I’ve heard they’re demo units.

 

[Philpug]

Difference between demo units and retail ?
Just curious as I’ve skied these bindings for years without incident and this is the first time I’ve heard they’re demo units.

As @cantunamunch said, the giveaway is the numbers on the side of the heel track. The difference is the demo binding is heavier with and looking where you are, at the back of the track, you will be (way) behind the optimum mount point of the ski. As far as using them for years, there is a lot of plastic in this heel than contains a spring that is under hundreds of pounds of pressure, 30+ year old plastic. I see you are driving a 3000GT, are you running 30 year old tires on it? Probably not. Tires are what hold you to the road, bindings are what hold you to the ski. Plastic fatigues and wears out and can break at the most inopportune time. As I said earlier, while there are bindings from that era I would ski, Salomon 997 Equipe or Race, which are all metal, not the plastic heeled demo version. Cue up @crgildart for his Salomon exploding heel video.

 

[François Pugh]

I would not trust that 30 year old plastic not to break either. However I notice there is a tab sticking out of the binding near the back, with triangles/arrows that seem to point to the side of the tab. I also notice that those arrows have moved into what looks suspiciously like the proper range of a forward pressure range indicator. If my suspicions are correct, you have the correct forward pressure. Do you like to live dangerously? How good are you at one ski skiing recoveries when the ski left you is the inside ski in a hard turn? Please post video when that plastic fails.

 

[crgildart]

Yer gonna die... Can we play bingo for what blows first, boots or binding heels?

Full disclosure. I'll not touch 80s plastic boots or bindings. Later 90s and Y2K I trust more. Most of the carnage I've seen was 80s plastic and 10 years was a good run for that. I've also notice that belts and hoses on cars last a lot longer these days.. and DV boots too.. It's getting better but proceed at your own risk..

 

[Philpug]

Can we play bingo for what blows first, boots or binding heels?

My money is on ...

1. SX70
2. 997 Heel (take a look by the rear screw, I wouldn't be surprised if some cracks are starting)
.
.
.
6. SX92 These are bomber.

 

[RetroSkier]

Ok, I’m taking all this under consideration and will look into newer bindings.

That said I’m willing to risk a few more runs with these ones.

The SX70’s are being retired. Got 7 runs in with them this year. Felt ok on the slopes but torture walking in them, like someone was stomping on my shins.

Will ski more runs with the snowblades while finding and deciding on better bindings.

If I only get a season or 2 out of the 92’s that’s fine the price was right. I already know the boots I’m leaning towards next.

My Dynastar. Now I’m getting really curious how much better they’d perform with lighter (metal ?) and better placed bindings. I know putting better performance tires on my car made a big difference.

Wide turning radius.

these have been interesting, If I ever go this short again I’m getting one with “normal” bindings.

Shorter turning radius.

You’re close on the car, it’s a Mitsubishi GTO.

I know (heard/read) that shaped skis are typically better/easier especially if you ski
various terrain. I like warming up on groomed runs and then challenging myself a little more in deeper powder.

With the current skis would replacement bindings be better set a little further forward or back ?

Yes, at some point newer more modern skis will likely be bought. I’m thinking all mountain.


I’m fortunate in one regard with all this, it’s only a 10 min walk to the ski shop to get work done or to find new gear; ideally on sale. Will also look at ski swaps.

I was browsing local ads for skis or bindings on sale, found more of the demo 977’s

Thanks again for the pointers and warnings.

 

[cantunamunch]

I was browsing local ads for skis or bindings on sale, found more of the demo 977’s

LOL. *imagines a bunch of eastern-BC lumberjacks holding onto gear until it's just at the point of breaking* Don't spend money on those.

 

[skipress]

I would not trust that 30 year old plastic not to break either. However I notice there is a tab sticking out of the binding near the back, with triangles/arrows that seem to point to the side of the tab. I also notice that those arrows have moved into what looks suspiciously like the proper range of a forward pressure range indicator. If my suspicions are correct, you have the correct forward pressure. Do you like to live dangerously? How good are you at one ski skiing recoveries when the ski left you is the inside ski in a hard turn? Please post video when that plastic fails.

When the boot is in the binding [closed] the arrows on that metal tab should fall in the cutout area in the plastic surround of the metal tab.

Note that binding also requires toe width and height adjustment and they need to be done before the length adjustment.

Ok, I’m taking all this under consideration and will look into newer bindings.

That said I’m willing to risk a few more runs with these ones.

The SX70’s are being retired. Got 7 runs in with them this year. Felt ok on the slopes but torture walking in them, like someone was stomping on my shins.

Will ski more runs with the snowblades while finding and deciding on better bindings.

If I only get a season or 2 out of the 92’s that’s fine the price was right. I already know the boots I’m leaning towards next.

My Dynastar. Now I’m getting really curious how much better they’d perform with lighter (metal ?) and better placed bindings. I know putting better performance tires on my car made a big difference.

Wide turning radius.
View attachment 156118

these have been interesting, If I ever go this short again I’m getting one with “normal” bindings.

Shorter turning radius.
View attachment 156119


You’re close on the car, it’s a Mitsubishi GTO.

I know (heard/read) that shaped skis are typically better/easier especially if you ski
various terrain. I like warming up on groomed runs and then challenging myself a little more in deeper powder.

With the current skis would replacement bindings be better set a little further forward or back ?

Yes, at some point newer more modern skis will likely be bought. I’m thinking all mountain.


I’m fortunate in one regard with all this, it’s only a 10 min walk to the ski shop to get work done or to find new gear; ideally on sale. Will also look at ski swaps.

I was browsing local ads for skis or bindings on sale, found more of the demo 977’s

Thanks again for the pointers and warnings.

Oddly a lot of tech in the binding is similar to modern iterations but.,.... but...but..

• The plastic could be brittle
• The springs 'unpredictable'
• Lord knows what the internal lubrication is like [grimy, solid]

 

[crgildart]

Looks perfectly fine, no cracks yet..

 

[RetroSkier]

When the boot is in the binding [closed] the arrows on that metal tab should fall in the cutout area in the plastic surround of the metal tab.

View attachment 156226

Note that binding also requires toe width and height adjustment and they need to be done before the length adjustment.


Oddly a lot of tech in the binding is similar to modern iterations but.,.... but...but..

• The plastic could be brittle
• The springs 'unpredictable'
• Lord knows what the internal lubrication is like [grimy, solid]

Toe height is mostly adjusted, difficult to pull a folded piece of paper out. I know there’s an actual gauge, which I don’t have. Lubrication maybe a little grimy.

Didn’t see an option to adjust toe width but the toe seemed to be fully covered.

 

[skipress]

Toe height is mostly adjusted, difficult to pull a folded piece of paper out. I know there’s an actual gauge, which I don’t have. Lubrication maybe a little grimy.

Didn’t see an option to adjust toe width but the toe seemed to be fully covered.

There will be 1 or 2 screws in the toe hold down lugs. Usually you open them right out so the front of the boot toe lug contacts a teflon plate and then close til they just touch the upper radius.

This is for a later version but still covers yours.

 

[newboots]

I like my knees, old and cranky though they be.

 

[Fuller]

I think this thread is approaching "I'll keep doing it until I need glasses" territory.

 

[RetroSkier]

There will be 1 or 2 screws in the toe hold down lugs. Usually you open them right out so the front of the boot toe lug contacts a teflon plate and then close til they just touch the upper radius.

This is for a later version but still covers yours.

View attachment 156315

This helps a lot.

92’s might be good here or at least require minimal adjustment.

Photographing the bottoms of ski boots is an interesting challenge.

Top of my boot and wings.

Bottom of my boot and teflon plate

This on the other hand would require a lot more adjustment. Just using it as a comparison. I also checked this setting with my SX70’s and they’d require the most adjustment overall (massive space between the boot and teflon plate).

SX72, definitely too much space up front.

It’s minimal but I think I see a slight gap there.

 

[slowrider]

Which is cheaper? New bindings or new knees? You can buy new bindings DIN 10 for $100.

 

[RetroSkier]

My knees have been fine with these bindings and I’m looking at new ones or used ones that would still be indemnified.

Have not seen new $100 bindings but I’ll keep a sharper eye out.