Another top sheet repair query: close encounter with a snowboarder.

[Doug Briggs]

If you want to go nuts, you can pigment epoxy.

I kind of like the scarred look on my own gear. Client's not so much, but that's work I do at another shop.

I really wish I had some red p-tex to 'show off' my base repairs. As it is I use clear if it'll show the core shots. The downside to clear is I don't know what is new and needs to be repaired and what is old and still fine.

You might think those are my rock skis, but I don't designate any as such. Tools, not jewels. I just ski the upper mountain at Breck. Enough said. I'll concede, this has been a tough year.

 

[SlideWright]

No manicured, down stream ski runs for you! Nice!

Have you ever tried a head to head test of using hard green wax in some of the gouges to see how long it lasts as a cheat if you are short on time?

 

[mdf]

How about using metal grip to seal the topsheet? Seems like it might be an easy way for those of us with base repair tools but no epoxy on hand.

 

[Doug Briggs]

No manicured, down stream ski runs for you! Nice!

Have you ever tried a head to head test of using hard green wax in some of the gouges to see how long it lasts as a cheat if you are short on time?

I'll ski groomers when I can't ski anything else.

No. I usually stay pretty current with the gouges as I hate when skis won't track/slide properly. But, if I don't have time (or forget ), I just run with the gouge. As you know, after you get wax in a gouge you have to spend even more time cleaning out the gouge before you can do a decent repair.

 

[Philpug]

Tools not jewels.

Some of us also like to take care of our tools too.

 

[Doug Briggs]

How about using metal grip to seal the topsheet? Seems like it might be an easy way for those of us with base repair tools but no epoxy on hand.

Nice idea, that might work, but it is hard to shape when cool. It scrapes nicely and a Panzer (or is it Panzar or Panser???) will remove it nicely but on bases you have the edges as guides; on topsheets, you have to freehand it and that as likely as not would pull or cut the metal-grip unless the repair is very small.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Some of us also like to take care of our tools too.

Agreed. Our tools need to work well even if they look like they've been through a war.

 

[SlideWright]

How about using metal grip to seal the topsheet? Seems like it might be an easy way for those of us with base repair tools but no epoxy on hand.

Interesting thought. A heat gun might make metal grip thin and run under better too for a quick seal. For ‘machining’ metal grip, I wonder if freezing it would make it sand-able??

 

[crgildart]

If you want to go nuts, you can pigment epoxy.

Meh let's not go crazy.. Just dab it with a similar shade of Sharpie after it dries

 

[mdf]

Nice idea, that might work, but it is hard to shape when cool. It scrapes nicely and a Panzer (or is it Panzar or Panser???) will remove it nicely but on bases you have the edges as guides; on topsheets, you have to freehand it and that as likely as not would pull or cut the metal-grip unless the repair is very small.

I was thinking shaving it with a razor knife.

 

[Doug Briggs]

I was thinking shaving it with a razor knife.

That'd probably work nicely.

 

[DebbieSue]

MarineWeld Twin Tube

J-B MarineWeld™ is a specially formulated two part Cold-Weld™ adhesive system that provides strong, lasting repairs for bonding different or similar surfaces, such as metal, composites, fiberglass and others. MarineWeld™ sets in 20 minutes at room temperature.

www.jbweld.com

MarineWeld Syringe

J-B MarineWeld™ is a specially formulated two part Cold-Weld™ adhesive system that provides strong, lasting repairs for bonding different or similar surfaces, such as metal, composites, fiberglass and others.

www.jbweld.com

The longer cure time epoxy will last longer and be less brittle, but the 5min would probably last the lifetime too.

Thanks so much for these specific recommendations. I'm gonna go with the longer cure time/twin tube. I've got plenty of time and it ends up dark grey, which is a better color match than the white of the 5 min. Why settle for 2350psi when I can have 5020psi!

If you want to go nuts, you can pigment epoxy.

I'm already nuts! Seems like the grey will be close enough to both topsheet and sidewall and then I can see how the repair is holding up over time.

Fill the nicks on the topsheet edge leaving the ski with the bases down so the epoxy floods the nicks. You can preheat the two parts of the epoxy to 150° F or so by putting it in a warm spot.

Thanks for the tape dam photo and tips . . . I think I can do this!
Hubby has a workbench and tools . . . . I'll try not to ruin too many of them. 150 degrees F seems hot, not warm, but I'll play with it on some waste materials before I decide how much warming I need to control the application.

You take a typical 12" mill bastard file at a 45* angle to the corner of the topsheet and just round it over a bit. The goal is to reduce the sharp edge that can catch on the other ski edges (or other things).

Hmmm. . . . "a typical 12" mill bastard file" . . . now that's an intriguing name for a tool.
In this case, the sharp edge was not the issue . . . it was the snowboarder, but maybe I'll round my corners as a way to fend off future snowboarders.

I figure, now that I've mastered "multi-quote", I can probably do the damn tape dam repair.
Thanks everyone for all the tips!! I hope to post the finished work in a few days.

 

[DebbieSue]

Should I bring my tuning kit to Sutton??

If you want, although between skiing, drinking wine, and pillow fights, I'm not sure there will be time for tuning. Also, aren't we counting on slush?

 

[Dwight]

If you want to go nuts, you can pigment epoxy.

Pretty sure I have the nuts part down.

 

[fatbob]

Some of us also like to take care of our tools too.

Sure. No problem if we're personally taking care of the issues. But I also see so many people fretting about cosmetic issues and laying out money / time in repair shops ( plus overgrinding to get rid of cosmetic scratches) that I do wonder.

 

[Noodler]

Pretty sure I have the nuts part down.
View attachment 229814

Interesting. What exactly are you up to here? Are you refinishing the entire topsheet? If so, please tell us more.

 

[Dwight]

Interesting. What exactly are you up to here? Are you refinishing the entire topsheet? If so, please tell us more.

The top sheet edges where trashed and I figured I would test some tinted epoxy and fill it up. The ski reside in Utah now but still get skied. This ski was a proto for the Endurance 98. V2 insides with a V1.5 top sheet.

Looking at the before and after shots, I'm not sure I did that great.

 

[Noodler]

The top sheet edges where trashed and I figured I would test some tinted epoxy and fill it up. The ski reside in Utah now but still get skied. This ski was a proto for the Endurance 98. V2 insides with a V1.5 top sheet.

Looking at the before and after shots, I'm not sure I did that great.

So you have kind of built a damn along the entire top edge around the skis and using epoxy to rebuild the entire circumference of the top edge. That is aggressive and impressive...

 

[Dwight]

So you have kind of built a damn along the entire top edge around the skis and using epoxy to rebuild the entire circumference of the top edge. That is aggressive and impressive...

Yes. These skis where going to go out West to my son and I wanted to make sure there was some top sheet protection. I purchased brand new 98s for me.

 

[SlideWright]

The top sheet edges where trashed and I figured I would test some tinted epoxy and fill it up. The ski reside in Utah now but still get skied. This ski was a proto for the Endurance 98. V2 insides with a V1.5 top sheet.

Looking at the before and after shots, I'm not sure I did that great.

Dude, here’s an opportunity to learn how to air brush.