Base Repairs

[MattD]

To those with ski tech experience ... Pardon my ignorance and if this has been covered elsewhere, I apologize!

I realize each case is different but, in general, if there have been base repairs (likely core shots) that have been professionally repaired, are those areas any more prone to further/repeat damage than the rest of the base material? Thanks for any input!

 

[KingGrump]

are those areas any more prone to further/repeat damage than the rest of the base material?

Yes and no.

Most core shots are usually under foot where pressure is highest. Skier skillset and luck have a lot to do with it also.

 

[SlideWright]

It also depends of how well the job was performed. A core shot or along the edge needs an additional step of using heat actuated metal grip (an adhesive) to act as a 'primer' before welding base repair material. The weld needs be performed with warmed bases to avoid a cold joint.

 

[GB_Ski]

are those areas any more prone to further/repeat damage than the rest of the base material? Thanks for any input!

It depends on the areas, but yes to those close to the edges and under the binding.

 

[mdf]

I find the patches wear down faster than the original base material, so you might have to top them off after 20 days or so. Or just ignore it -- the effect is pretty minor.

As others noted above, if the way you ski around rocks has a pattern to it, you might hit the same spot again, whether it has a patch or not.

 

[KingGrump]

I find the patches wear down faster than the original base material, so you might have to top them off after 20 days or so. Or just ignore it -- the effect is pretty minor.

I think it all depends on your patching material and method.
I have been using Skimender repair rod from Tognar. The original base material and the patch wears at about the same rate.

 

[Swiss Toni]

If the damaged area is cut out using a K Technic base punch https://www.theskierslounge.co.uk/t...d-base-punch-set-with-thermo-plate--230v__333 or something similar and replaced with a piece of UHMWPE base material then the repair will be as good as the original base material as you are replacing like-for-like.

I find the patches wear down faster than the original base material, so you might have to top them off after 20 days or so. Or just ignore it -- the effect is pretty minor.

P-tex repair material is extruded, so it is not made from UHMWPE, it is softer than UHMWPE base material and will therefore wear down faster than the original base material. I think P-tex repair candles, strips, wire etc. are made from LDPE, most if not all of it and metal grip is made by the Italian company Liski s.r.l. https://www.liski.it/en/categorie_prodotto/ski-service-program-eng/

Recently adhesives have become available that adhere to high energy plastics like polyethylene. An Italian company is marketing a methyl methacrylate adhesive (MMA) as a base repair material https://www.proed.eu/en/products/pro-mpw-bond-the-base-restorer-17/ and a Swiss guy has come up with a cyanoacrylate / plastic powder repair material https://www.skibaserepair.ch/ Both of these will be at least as hard as the original base material. The MMA should stick well to ski base material, not sure about the cyanoacrylate as you normally need to use a primer to get it to stick to polyethylene.

 

[ScottB]

It also depends of how well the job was performed. A core shot or along the edge needs an additional step of using heat actuated metal grip (an adhesive) to act as a 'primer' before welding base repair material. The weld needs be performed with warmed bases to avoid a cold joint.

I think it all depends on your patching material and method.
I have been using Skimender repair rod from Tognar. The original base material and the patch wears at about the same rate.

If the damaged area is cut out using a K Technic base punch https://www.theskierslounge.co.uk/t...d-base-punch-set-with-thermo-plate--230v__333 or something similar and replaced with a piece of UHMWPE base material then the repair will be as good as the original base material as you are replacing like-for-like.


metal grip is made by the Italian company Liski s.r.l. https://www.liski.it/en/categorie_prodotto/ski-service-program-eng/

Recently adhesives have become available that adhere to high energy plastics like polyethylene. An Italian company is marketing a methyl methacrylate adhesive (MMA) as a base repair material https://www.proed.eu/en/products/pro-mpw-bond-the-base-restorer-17/ and a Swiss guy has come up with a cyanoacrylate / plastic powder repair material https://www.skibaserepair.ch/ Both of these will be at least as hard as the original base material. The MMA should stick well to ski base material, not sure about the cyanoacrylate as you normally need to use a primer to get it to stick to polyethylene.

I have only done the drip PTEX stick for repairs. I think its time I up my game and follow some of the advice above for this repair. First time in 30 years I caused a core shot. The 6" of new snow at Owls head in Canada (2024 NEG) hid a lot of rocks in the ungroomed sections of their trails. Advice welcome to an experienced tuner but not greatly experienced base repairer.

 

[SlideWright]

This might help:

 

[mdf]

The spade tip on the soldering iron makes it a lot easier than a standard pointy tip.