Carbon fiber frame questions

[scott43]

 

[cantunamunch]

 

[cantunamunch]

It doesn't matter that much what brand and model you buy. I suspect you're the kind of person who's either going to drop it after a while or else end up on a Colnago.

Time Bicycles America

Welcome to Time Bicycles! We are at the forefront of carbon fibre manufacture and bike production. We utilise two unique processes, Braided Carbon Structure and Resin Transfer Molding to build incredible bikes.

shop.timebicycles.com

note the geometry is still (much) more road than gravel

 

[TheArchitect]

I had my Retul fitting yesterday and it went well. I have a Defy Advanced 2 ordered and a second fitting once it's built. I need to swap out the stem, add pedal extenders and potentially go with Specialized Hover Expert bars to get a bit more upright but other than that it fit well. On the superficial side I really wanted the Amber Glow color but they sold the last one between last weekend and the fitting. Bummer, but I'll get over it.

Thanks again for all of the advice! Now I'm off to figure out what bike computer and lights to get.

 

[TheArchitect]

The "I need to brag about a gear purchase" thread--Cycling version

Awesome! Details, please! The frame is a used Geometron G1, size medium (which still has a reach of 490mm). It's super burly. My favorite detail is that all of the markings on it are just milled out of the frame, that's how much material is there. 175mm of travel in the back, and 170 up front...

www.skitalk.com

Very happy camper. I'm already thinking of what wheels to upgrade to.

Thanks again for all of your advice!

 

[TheArchitect]

I’ll ask here before starting a new thread. I’m loving the Defy so far but whenever I get out of the saddle and with some power the spokes are creaking a bit. I’ve read mixed things about the PR-2 wheels and given my old bike had cheaper wheels and were silent I’m wondering if it’s true that they aren’t the best.

I’ve been looking at wheels and when I price out some carbon options from DT Swiss, Roval and Bontrager I cringe a bit. Is carbon really worth it or are there good aluminum wheels out there that will be a noticable upgrade over my creaky PR-2’s? I’d like to stick with something I can get from my LBS as I have a $600 gift card with them that I can use towards the wheels if/when I do upgrade them. They carry the ones listed above and a few others. Looking for something like an endurance wheel for comfort and some a bit of aero.

 

[cantunamunch]

I’ll ask here before starting a new thread. I’m loving the Defy so far but whenever I get out of the saddle and with some power the spokes are creaking a bit.

Re-tensioning a wheel after the first week+ of riding is a thing ... well at least it used to be. Have you had your mechanic look at the tension?

If there's no tensioning problem...maybe it's the bottom bracket

They carry the ones listed above and a few others. Looking for something like an endurance wheel for comfort and some a bit of aero.

If I had a $600 ticket and the LBS carried these, I'd probably go for it.

Roval Rapide CLX II

Since 2020, Rapide CLX wheels have won more races on the World Tour than any other wheels, and we just made them faster. Meet the new Rapide CLX II. Com...

www.specialized.com

Otherwise...I don't see a rush. I would expect to get 2-3K out of the PR-2s. I've gotten far more out of far junkier wheels. Unless they're pranged in a pothole or can't keep tension for other reasons, they really should last a bit.

Tensioning and truing...and air pressure hacking ... is where I'd go.

 

[Tony S]

I’ll ask here before starting a new thread. I’m loving the Defy so far but whenever I get out of the saddle and with some power the spokes are creaking a bit.

Creaks are notoriously hard to source. Are you sure it's the spokes? Last bottom bracket creak I had turned out to be the seatpost. I was so sure, too.

 

[wooglin]

Creaks are notoriously hard to source. Are you sure it's the spokes? Last bottom bracket creak I had turned out to be the seatpost. I was so sure, too.

I'd start with the spokes as well. But I'd also fully expect it to be the last thing I think to check.

 

[scott43]

Ho boy..the Creak Quest.. I've done many of those in my time. Start with easy things, swap the wheels. Swap the pedals. Remove the seat. Check with no hands. Could be the bar/stem interface. If you're sure it's the wheels, swap the front and rear separately. Could be the freehub. Most new wheels these days have threadlock on them because of low spoke count. It's possible the creak because each spokes takes up more load than previously and the rim does flex more. I'd suspect the BB more if it's a press-fit.

As for wheel selection, Campy wheels have always good been in IMHO. Those Rovals are good, I know folks with many miles on them. Hunt wheels also seem to be nice.

 

[TheArchitect]

Re-tensioning a wheel after the first week+ of riding is a thing ... well at least it used to be. Have you had your mechanic look at the tension?

If there's no tensioning problem...maybe it's the bottom bracket




If I had a $600 ticket and the LBS carried these, I'd probably go for it.

Roval Rapide CLX II

Since 2020, Rapide CLX wheels have won more races on the World Tour than any other wheels, and we just made them faster. Meet the new Rapide CLX II. Com...

www.specialized.com

Otherwise...I don't see a rush. I would expect to get 2-3K out of the PR-2s. I've gotten far more out of far junkier wheels. Unless they're pranged in a pothole or can't keep tension for other reasons, they really should last a bit.

Tensioning and truing...and air pressure hacking ... is where I'd go.

I'll have the mechanic look at the spokes when I get the 30 day check up. It's not driving me crazy yet. I know I'll upgrade the wheels regardless but I want to do it next spring instead of now. I'm only asking now because I'm an OCD planner.

Creaks are notoriously hard to source. Are you sure it's the spokes? Last bottom bracket creak I had turned out to be the seatpost. I was so sure, too.

Funny you should mention that. I've already diagnosed and fixed one creak. I thought it was the BB but it turned out to be....wait for it...the seat post. I added some carbon paste now the bike is silent except for the that wheel creak. I'm pretty sure it's the front wheel. I was at a stop and then stood up and put some weight into the bars. It very clearly came from below and well in front of me. Sure, it could the head tube or bars but I really think it was the wheel. More testing to be done on the next ride.

Ho boy..the Creak Quest.. I've done many of those in my time. Start with easy things, swap the wheels. Swap the pedals. Remove the seat. Check with no hands. Could be the bar/stem interface. If you're sure it's the wheels, swap the front and rear separately. Could be the freehub. Most new wheels these days have threadlock on them because of low spoke count. It's possible the creak because each spokes takes up more load than previously and the rim does flex more. I'd suspect the BB more if it's a press-fit.

As for wheel selection, Campy wheels have always been in IMHO. Those Rovals are good, I know folks with many miles on them. Hunt wheels also seem to be nice.

See above! I was thinking it was the BB (it's a press-fit) but it was the seat post.

 

[cantunamunch]

I'll have the mechanic look at the spokes when I get the 30 day check up. It's not driving me crazy yet. I know I'll upgrade the wheels regardless but I want to do it next spring instead of now. I'm only asking now because I'm an OCD planner.

I'd still check it now, before the wheel goes out of true. 'Coz then it will be 4x harder.

Funny you should mention that. I've already diagnosed and fixed one creak. I thought it was the BB but it turned out to be....wait for it...the seat post. I added some carbon paste now the bike is silent except for the that wheel creak. I'm pretty sure it's the front wheel. I was at a stop and then stood up and put some weight into the bars. It very clearly came from below and well in front of me. Sure, it could the head tube or bars but I really think it was the wheel. More testing to be done on the next ride.

Could still be a lot of things... including the stem. Or the pedals/cleats. Welcome to the creak detective game, this is the real club.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Never hurts to tighten everything up to spec. The modified beach cruiser I ride twice a year needed some serious tightening the past week- luckily i noticed the headset issue, Need a pipe wrench next time as hand tight does not cut it. But thats a steel frame with no suspension.

Guessing bb here as thats what I usually break first. My loose spokes never creak

My first mtb that I bought from a shop with my own $ when I was 16 had the damn crank fall off. It was a Diamond Back which cost maybe $500 which is more than $1000 these days.

 

[scott43]

Square taper cranks for the loss..

 

[TheArchitect]

I'd still check it now, before the wheel goes out of true. 'Coz then it will be 4x harder.






Could still be a lot of things... including the stem. Or the pedals/cleats. Welcome to the creak detective game, this is the real club.

So, I've never tightened a spoke in my life. I guess I'm off to YouTube.

 

[TheArchitect]

Never hurts to tighten everything up to spec. The modified beach cruiser I ride twice a year needed some serious tightening the past week- luckily i noticed the headset issue, Need a pipe wrench next time as hand tight does not cut it. But thats a steel frame with no suspension.

Guessing bb here as thats what I usually break first. My loose spokes never creak

My first mtb that I bought from a shop with my own $ when I was 16 had the damn crank fall off. It was a Diamond Back which cost maybe $500 which is more than $1000 these days.

Well, hopefully it isn't the BB but if it is that's what the mechanic is for. The last time I took one apart was the mid-80's for a BMX.

 

[scott43]

Well, hopefully it isn't the BB but if it is that's what the mechanic is for. The last time I took one apart was the mid-80's for a BMX.

Funny they're kinda the same as that BMX BB these days...

 

[Tony S]

So, I've never tightened a spoke in my life. I guess I'm off to YouTube.

 

[Tom K.]

I need to swap out the stem, add pedal extenders and potentially go with Specialized Hover Expert bars to get a bit more upright but other than that it fit well.

What, no saddle swap?! Just kidding, but the holy trinity of bike fitting is that you typically are sold a new stem, new bars, and a new saddle. Maybe whichever style of seatpost you don't have (straight vs. setback).

whenever I get out of the saddle and with some power the spokes are creaking a bit

So the easiest thing to try, and not really that likely to work, is to drip a drop of light lube at each spoke where they cross each other. Overseas shipping, humidity, salty air, etc. can sometimes result in a bit of stiction at that point.

Ho boy..the Creak Quest..

The fun of creak finding never gets old!!!

 

[scott43]

So, I've never tightened a spoke in my life. I guess I'm off to YouTube.

I... Respectfully... Suggest.... You don't do that. these days wheels at that level are pretty well prepared from the factory. I'd work with your shop to sort out the wheels.