Edge angles changes: good or bad?

[FreddieG]

Hello All
going to try to ski steeper terrain this season.
I will ski Stockli Laser AX or Head KORE 93 .
The question is: do i keep manufacturer recommended angles for base and sides edges , or do i change either way? In other words, higher angles for better grips, or lower angles to allow easier dealing with difficult skiing situation?
I am 65 years old, so that probably matters.
Thank you for all advice and comments.
FreddieG.

 

[DocGKR]

For those types of skis and uses, I'll typically run a 1/3.

 

[razie]

There is a marked difference between 1 and 0.5 base. 1 should be good enough for the places you would use a 93 ski. Even if you make it more aggressive than that, the torsional bend in the fat ski would cancel it out - 1/3 or even 1/2, depending on the prevalence of harder snow, is what I would put on that.

 

[mdf]

Remember that the standard manufaturer's base bevel on an AX is something absurdly large. I would go with my (and many people's) standard 1 & 3.

 

[Henry]

Use the bevel angles that work for your skiing. The manufacturer doesn't know how you ski nor your usual snow conditions. My 2017 Laser AX needed a tune when new. The base structure was coarse and something else made the ski skittery on the snow. A good tune, and they're sweet. I like .7 or .75° base (depends on how the shop can set their machine) and 3° sides on the AX, and 1 & 2 on the Kore 99 powder skis.

You won't want the Kores on hard snow, and on soft snow the edges aren't very important. On steeps your technique matters more than the angles of the edges. Do fine-tune both technique and equipment. A base edge angle less than 1° gives one quicker grip of the edges. That can be disconcerting until one gets used to it, then it's great. Keep the edges sharp for the hard snow days. An edge tuning tool with a diamond file works great to put that last fine finish & sharp edge after a day's grinding on hard pack.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Lets keep it simple base angles control how fast skis engage (or forgive). If you like instant response and don't mind being punished for errors 0.5 is great.

Side angles control bite (and works in conjunction with the base angle). The bigger the more bite. This depend on the ski and intended usage.

If a single recommendation is made a 1/3 is likely the most common regardless of ski or usage. Forgiveness and grip, best of both worlds.

Variations from here are personal preferences. I for one use 0.5/4 and enjoy it.

Important notes:

• Set base angles first, then set the side.
• Start with the smallest base and increase if required (longest base life).
• Start with the largest side angle and decrease (longest side

BTW for longest life you need to understand how to achieve this, it is simple but complicated in application.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Forget about the angles and take a lesson or get your boots dialed in. Maybe you already do these things.

If you built the skill and confidence to ski steeper terrain why add a new variable, at least at the outset?

 

[Tony Storaro]

going to try to ski steeper terrain this season.
I will ski Stöckli Laser AX
The question is: do i keep manufacturer recommended angles for base and sides edges

Absolutely not!

1/3

The recommended 1,3/2 on steep icy terrain is suicidal IMHO.

 

[DanoT]

Western N.A. resorts that do not get icy: 1/2 is the most common.

Eastern resorts: 1/3 is the most popular.

 

[Atomicman]

1/3 (or .7/3) on all skis, no matter where you are skiing!

 

[oldschoolskier]

1/3 (or .7/3) on all skis, no matter where you are skiing!

0.5/4 for on all skis for me. Ski right or get punished

 

[David Chaus]

OK, my ON3P's (both Billy Goat and Woodsman) came with a 1/1 tune from the factory, and for the most part they are perfect for where they are being skied. That said, I changed my Woodsman 102's to 1/2 because, well the runout back to the chairlift after all the off-piste fun.

I'm keeping my Renoun Z90's at 1/2, though I once had then at 1/3, but for where they were being used (as an all mountain ski) the 1/2 tune is better.

My new Blossom AM77's came with a 1/2 tune from the factory. I've been advised by the distributor to tune them 1/3 since I opted to get a Vist Speedlock plate.

So I think the tune can be different depending on where and how the ski is used. Most of the time I'm not on groomed slopes (for sure it's fun when I can get it) and there's a lot to ski (bumps, crud, trees) that does not benefit from a 1/3 or more aggressive tune.

 

[Atomicman]

OK, my ON3P's (both Billy Goat and Woodsman) came with a 1/1 tune from the factory, and for the most part they are perfect for where they are being skied. That said, I changed my Woodsman 102's to 1/2 because, well the runout back to the chairlift after all the off-piste fun.

I'm keeping my Renoun Z90's at 1/2, though I once had then at 1/3, but for where they were being used (as an all mountain ski) the 1/2 tune is better.

My new Blossom AM77's came with a 1/2 tune from the factory. I've been advised by the distributor to tune them 1/3 since I opted to get a Vist Speedlock plate.

So I think the tune can be different depending on where and how the ski is used. Most of the time I'm not on groomed slopes (for sure it's fun when I can get it) and there's a lot to ski (bumps, crud, trees) that does not benefit from a 1/3 or more aggressive tune.

and there's a lot to ski (bumps, crud, trees) that does not benefit from a 1/3 or more aggressive tune.

We will just have to agree to disagree........a 3 degree side edge is NOT aggressive. And how is it a detriment in bumps, trees and crud. I think you are confusing base edge and side edge. A .5 base edge in the conditions you listed is aggressive, but not a 3 degree side edge. Here in the PNW we often get powder on top of ice/refrozen snow and or frozen bumps, not bottomless pow, I want a 3 degree without a doubt.

The only skis I use a 4 degree on is my FIS SL's

 

[François Pugh]

I find a 1:3 a lot easier than a 0.5:3 to control feathering the edge with when skiing moguls or otherwise side-ways skiing.
I find a 1:2 a little easier than 1:3 to control feathering the edge with when skiing moguls or otherwise side-ways skiing.

 

[razie]

or otherwise side-ways skiing.

And now I need to see that...

 

[François Pugh]

And now I need to see that...

For example, making a drifted, braking turn into and through an empty lift corral, ending at the chair or T-bar with perfect timing and matching the lift's velocity, or slowing down while looking over what's ahead that you couldn't see before, before deciding if you need to ditch speed or send it. I'm sure there are other examples, but these two come swiftly to mind.

 

[Atomicman]

And now I need to see that...

 

[Atomicman]

For example, making a drifted, braking turn into and through an empty lift corral, ending at the chair or T-bar with perfect timing and matching the lift's velocity, or slowing down while looking over what's ahead that you couldn't see before, before deciding if you need to ditch speed or send it. I'm sure there are other examples, but these two come swiftly to mind.

I can drift (basically sideslip) all I want, anytime with a 1 degree or even a .7 degree base bevel. the side edge has nothing to do with it!

 

[oldschoolskier]

One of the things I do every season and through out the season, is 360 spins and variations in all conditions from ice to crud to deep snow with 0.5/4 on all my skis. It really comes down to one thing, how well good your edge feel/control is.

You'll find that those to prefer more aggressive tunes tend to have attended the balance of feel and control.

 

[François Pugh]

I can drift (basically sideslip) all I want, anytime with a 1 degree or even a .7 degree base bevel. the side edge has nothing to do with it!

My daily driver is 0.5:3. I can drift just fine with it any time, anywhere. That doesn't mean it's not easier (for me and for others) with a 1:3. I can drift just fine with a 1:3 anytime anywhere, but it's still easier with a 1:2.