Yes, at least on their youth race skis, Fischer topsheets are more fragile. Not as bad as Head youth race skis though which appear to use something akin to peanut brittle for the top sheet. Both brands have this issue due to the use of a glass fiber layer right under the top sheet instead the aluminum/titanal layer used by other brands. The use of the glass fiber instead of metal makes the ski easier to flex for lighter skiers, but it is certainly not impact resistant.
Most important... make sure your child fully understands that they should absolutely never ever bang their skis together to clean off any accumulated snow. If they are worried about the snow, tell them to just ski faster and it will blow off.
Next, pick up a large Panzer/radial/body file. Use this file to bevel and/or round off the corner where the topsheet meets the sidewall. I don't bother with this in the area beside the bindings, but do it everywhere else around the entire topsheet. For bonus points, flip the ski over and use a fine file to completely round off the metal edges in the tip and tail area that is outside of the running surface. Especially with the tip area, rounding the edges eliminates a lot of potential damage from crossed tips. Extra, extra bonus points if you remove the tip protectors from the SL skis for this topsheet and edge rounding process.
Every time you tune their skis, check over the topsheets first. Use the panzer file and/or a razor blade to remove any high spots and loose pieces on the top sheet. This helps keep small damage from turning into big damage, and it also mitigates the possibility of marring the base when skis get crossed.
Finally, fixing the current damage. I use G/flex 650 Toughened epoxy, but this is just what I keep on hand for fixing delaminations. Since this is not structural, any 2-part epoxy will be fine, but those with slower cure times will be easier to work with. Do not use a thickened epoxy because it will be harder to properly wet out the exposed glass fibers and it also won't flow into all of the little crevices. Just put some blue tape on the sidewall to create a dam and keep the epoxy contained. If you want to color match the epoxy, there are epoxy specific colorants that can be mixed into the epoxy. A single drop of colorant is enough for the volume of epoxy you would need for the pictured damage. Less is more as too much colorant will inhibit the curing of the epoxy and leave it feeling sticky. The skis need to be warm and dry. Thoroughly clean the damaged area with acetone or aerosol carburetor cleaner. Mix up your epoxy and then use your mixing stick (handle of a plastic utensil works great) to work small amounts of epoxy into damaged area. The main goal is a good bond to seal up the topsheet and help prevent further damage and not necessarily make the ski look like new. Once the epoxy is cured, remove the blue tape and then use that panzer file to shave down the epoxy to be level with the topsheet and then round it off where it meets the sidewall.
Panzer files look brutal, but are extremely efficient with a little practice.
