Gettin my butt kicked

[DanoT]

Dont think that hasnt been considered. I am still working on how to power a rope tow off the PTO on the tractor.

As soon as I saw the tractor at the bottom of the "ski run" I thought, you have the tractor so there is the rope tow, almost ready to go.

So, don't bother with the pto. Instead take the tire off a rear wheel but leave the wheel in place, then sling the rope down to a set up second wheel mounted horizontally on an axle, firmly secured in the ground. Or the second wheel can be mounted vertically on a more complicated set up.

 

[Varmintmist]

As soon as I saw the tractor at the bottom of the "ski run" I thought, you have the tractor so there is the rope tow, almost ready to go.

So, don't bother with the pto. Instead take the tire off a rear wheel but leave the wheel in place, then sling the rope down to a set up second wheel mounted horizontally on an axle, firmly secured in the ground. Or the second wheel can be mounted vertically on a more complicated set up.

It is also my snow clearing device. No way am I going to dismount a loaded tire for a rope tow in the winter. If I can find a junk axel with a couple wheels and a PTO shaft, the welder and fire wrench could make it happen. You would need 3, so you had a idler or the drive side would have to be V'ed to grab the rope as you put tension on it. .......

Like I need another project......

and.. I have 540 AND 1K rpm on the pto, heh heh heh.

 

[DanoT]

It is also my snow clearing device. No way am I going to dismount a loaded tire for a rope tow in the winter. If I can find a junk axel with a couple wheels and a PTO shaft, the welder and fire wrench could make it happen. You would need 3, so you had a idler or the drive side would have to be V'ed to grab the rope as you put tension on it. .......

Like I need another project......

and.. I have 540 AND 1K rpm on the pto, heh heh heh.

I should have included a disclaimer in my post #41:

I have no actual experience setting up a tractor powered row tow but was merely describing the kind of ski lifts that my late father experienced skiing in the Laurentian Mountain foothills north of Montreal in the 1930s. They would head north out of Montreal in a ski train and then ski through farmers fields back to a train station closer to the city. On the steep hills the farmers would have tractor rope tows set up at 5 or 10 cents a lift.

 

[Varmintmist]

Oh, update on Daughter #2 car. Replaced the O2 sensor, total with farting around 45 min. Looked at the tires and alignment, figured she shouldnt run on bald tires, took it for alignment and sneakers, was driving it home and it jinked after most turns like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. Find out that the ball joints are assembly's, and are press fit into the control arm. The Drivers side is a replacement, it unpressed itself from the OEM control arm. Get this, a NEW control arm with new joint assy, is less than 40 bucks. Why on earth would a person replace the assy that is a press fit on moderately thin metal when the the ENTIRE control arm is under 50 bucks with shipping, MY cost?????

The Mr Goodwrench is getting old. Just stupid little stuff that is simple or should have been done right the first time.

 

[Varmintmist]

I should have included a disclaimer in my post #41:

I have no actual experience setting up a tractor powered row tow but was merely describing the kind of ski lifts that my late father experienced skiing in the Laurentian Mountain foothills north of Montreal in the 1930s. They would head north out of Montreal in a ski train and then ski through farmers fields back to a train station closer to the city. On the steep hills the farmers would have tractor rope tows set up at 5 or 10 cents a lift.

Oh it would work, but you would have to dedicate the machine to rope tow. It would be blocked stationary and run at idle. If you had only air in your tires, or a extra rim and the snow would keep the tractor in the barn when it can be earning money? Its a rope tow.

 

[François Pugh]

Oh, update on Daughter #2 car. Replaced the O2 sensor, total with farting around 45 min. Looked at the tires and alignment, figured she shouldnt run on bald tires, took it for alignment and sneakers, was driving it home and it jinked after most turns like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. Find out that the ball joints are assembly's, and are press fit into the control arm. The Drivers side is a replacement, it unpressed itself from the OEM control arm. Get this, a NEW control arm with new joint assy, is less than 40 bucks. Why on earth would a person replace the assy that is a press fit on moderately thin metal when the the ENTIRE control arm is under 50 bucks with shipping, MY cost?????

The Mr Goodwrench is getting old. Just stupid little stuff that is simple or should have been done right the first time.

About what I have come to expect from a GM dealership mechanic; they see you as a make work project. Why fix the problem once, when they can keep you coming back?
Edit: Their plan backfired; I switched brands, no longer a fan.

 

[Uncle-A]

Oh, update on Daughter #2 car. Replaced the O2 sensor, total with farting around 45 min. Looked at the tires and alignment, figured she shouldnt run on bald tires, took it for alignment and sneakers, was driving it home and it jinked after most turns like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. Find out that the ball joints are assembly's, and are press fit into the control arm. The Drivers side is a replacement, it unpressed itself from the OEM control arm. Get this, a NEW control arm with new joint assy, is less than 40 bucks. Why on earth would a person replace the assy that is a press fit on moderately thin metal when the the ENTIRE control arm is under 50 bucks with shipping, MY cost?????

The Mr Goodwrench is getting old. Just stupid little stuff that is simple or should have been done right the first time.

My question would be how did they do the alignment with the issue of the ball joint? It just does not seem that the alignment could be done.

 

[KingGrump]

If the lower A arms are shot on a front wheel drive. Take a good look at the half shafts. Worn CV joints can really affects the ride and handling.
They are pretty cheap for domestic cars. Got new ones for my Dodge minivan for $57 per side. Not much more work if you are already swapping out the A arm.

 

[Varmintmist]

My question would be how did they do the alignment with the issue of the ball joint? It just does not seem that the alignment could be done.

100.00 question

 

[Varmintmist]

About what I have come to expect from a GM dealership mechanic; they see you as a make work project. Why fix the problem once, when they can keep you coming back?
Edit: Their plan backfired; I switched brands, no longer a fan.

its a ford. GM got me in the past also, not a fan. I was calling me Mr Goodwrench. I like playing Mr Goodwrench about as much as being Manual La'Bor

 

[Varmintmist]

If the lower A arms are shot on a front wheel drive. Take a good look at the half shafts. Worn CV joints can really affects the ride and handling.
They are pretty cheap for domestic cars. Got new ones for my Dodge minivan for $57 per side. Not much more work if you are already swapping out the A arm.

control arm itself is OK. The replacement ball joint (why? the entire control arm is under 40 bucks and its a press fit so odds are it wont hold) backed out as expected. The whole thing should have been replaced whenever this got done.

 

[KingGrump]

Agree with you on the control arm being cheaper. Lot less work too. No need for a press.
No need to replace the other two bushings on the A arm down the road since they are new also.

 

[Varmintmist]

Control arm installed, check ride shown no sign of ziggy zaggy post curve negotiation. Calling this one a win.