binding lubricant needed?

[tube77]

I read that the binding needs to be re-lubricated time to time.
Is that really needed? I haven't had any issues without doing it.
If needed, how often do you re-lubricate and where in binding to lubricate?
Any specific product to recommend?

 

[James]

I’m afraid you’ve tunneled into a rabbit hole few have ventured in save those who restore vintage bindings. Another reason mud skiing isn’t a great idea for bindings. Sand = fuggedaboutit.

Possibly @Mike Thomas or @Philpug have suggestions.

 

[crgildart]

I’m afraid you’ve tunneled into a rabbit hole few have ventured in save those who restore vintage bindings. Another reason mud skiing isn’t a great idea for bindings. Sand = fuggedaboutit.

Possibly @Mike Thomas or @Philpug have suggestions.

Same for rooftop ski racks.. Sand and road salt blasting your bindings all the way to and from your ski destination day after day. Pretty sure the shop folks will say that if it's still indemnified and bench tests OK there is no need to take them apart and lube them.. YVMV..

If they're old, caveat emptier.

 

[tube77]

I’m afraid you’ve tunneled into a rabbit hole few have ventured in save those who restore vintage bindings. Another reason mud skiing isn’t a great idea for bindings. Sand = fuggedaboutit.

Possibly @Mike Thomas or @Philpug have suggestions.

Not really.. I am neither asking about old vintage binding nor muddy binding.
I am wondering if the re-grease is needed as a regular maintenance practice like off-offseason base waxing..
Most of my skis are less than 5 years old and the bindings look clean though..

 

[Jacques]

I read that the binding needs to be re-lubricated time to time.
Is that really needed? I haven't had any issues without doing it.
If needed, how often do you re-lubricate and where in binding to lubricate?
Any specific product to recommend?

Maybe....https://www.sealxpert.com/silicone-grease-spray
Or.....https://momar.com/item/3551
Can't hurt.

 

[Seldomski]

Grease on new bindings is more like petroleum jelly to me. If you use the wrong lube, you could end up making things worse. The thin grease could dissolve whatever is left on there and effectively clean out whatever protection is left. And some spray on stuff can aaattack plastics.

 

[Aquila]

Actually, this thread is of interest to me. I've already had to have a pair of bindings lubricated less than a year after buying them, brand new. I didn't do it myself (actually I didn't know what was wrong with them and so I took them into my usual shop on the way back from skiing to ask), but my issue is that I was having a HEINOUS time stepping into them. They had become almost impossible to step into, to the point where I stopped using those particular skis because i was concerned.

Turns out the brake heel piece (?) had become extremely stiff, the shop put some sort of lubricant in the mechanism somewhere and they improved instantly. So no issues with the actual release mechanisms - just the brake - but still. Don't know why this happened to almost brand new bindings. I don't have a roof rack, my skis just travel in my car with the back seat folded down. Not sure if I will keep having to get them re-lubricated from time to time?

 

[Ken_R]

I read that the binding needs to be re-lubricated time to time.
Is that really needed? I haven't had any issues without doing it.
If needed, how often do you re-lubricate and where in binding to lubricate?
Any specific product to recommend?

I always like to check for lubrication under the sliding AFD plate and also to a lesser degree in between the movable parts in the toe and heel.

 

[trailtrimmer]

The grease is silicone based so its compatible with thermoplastics. It's basically the same stuff they ship with polyurethane suspension bushings.

You could easily use this stuff or anything formulated like it.

Energy Suspension Formula 5 Bushing Prelube

www.energysuspensionparts.com

 

[Noodler]

Whenever the question of binding lube crops up, you'll usually get this answer:

Phil Waterproof Grease

Our Waterproof Grease is intended for those who do their own work around their shop/garage. Our 3 oz tube has a thread on cap for easy removal and resealing. For better precision when applying grease for our squeeze tubes you can thread on our portable grease gun. We also have 3 oz cartridges...

phil-wood-co.myshopify.com

 

[trailtrimmer]

Whenever the question of binding lube crops up, you'll usually get this answer:

Phil Waterproof Grease

Our Waterproof Grease is intended for those who do their own work around their shop/garage. Our 3 oz tube has a thread on cap for easy removal and resealing. For better precision when applying grease for our squeeze tubes you can thread on our portable grease gun. We also have 3 oz cartridges...

phil-wood-co.myshopify.com

Which would be wrong if it’s petroleum based. Pretty sure it is.

 

[Henry]

Bindings do need lubrication. The factory lube lasts a long time in many, but I've seen both Marker and Rossi with the single pivot heel that are very stiff and need re-lubing. Getting the lube into the spots that need it can be difficult. A light silicone grease should work well, about the consistency of room temperature Vasoline. Just a squirt of aerosol silicone lube might not last long, and as said above, might wash off the good grease that's there. I have an ongoing friendly dispute with a buddy. He uses a rooftop rack for his skis and hasn't had a problem with road slop getting into his bindings...yet. I put my skis, and his when he's with me, into the car or into a top box.

This is from the MSDS for Phil Waterproof Grease

 

[crgildart]

If you hot box with the bindings on I would think that could cause the grease break down and trickle out..

 

[Jacques]

If you hot box with the bindings on I would think that could cause the grease break down and trickle out..

Never had grease drip out. Hot box temp. not enough. It might migrate some grease where it is needed though,

 

[ihocky2]

I have noticed in the pamphlet that came with new Atomic bindings they mention greasing in the maintenance section. Also the Atomic Shop Manual discusses removing old/dirty grease during annual inspection and regreasing. The only thing they say about the grease is to "Use binding grease only". No other mention on what type that is, or where to get it.

 

[Tony S]

I have noticed in the pamphlet that came with new Atomic bindings they mention greasing in the maintenance section. Also the Atomic Shop Manual discusses removing old/dirty grease during annual inspection and regreasing. The only thing they say about the grease is to "Use binding grease only". No other mention on what type that is, or where to get it.

Typical.

Funny how cycle / bike shop culture encourages sensible DIY skills while skiing culture continues to stonewall.

 

[Noodler]

Typical.

Funny how cycle / bike shop culture encourages sensible DIY skills while skiing culture continues to stonewall.

I guess because there's a liability element that the binding manufacturers are held to. Every tech manual for bindings I've ever read only refers to specific manufacturer's branded grease and their part number for ordering by the shop.

 

[Tony S]

I guess because there's a liability element that the binding manufacturers are held to. Every tech manual for bindings I've ever read only refers to specific manufacturer's branded grease and their part number for ordering by the shop.

And brakes for a bike that goes 50mph down a hill on pavement near cars?

 

[Tony S]

I guess because there's a liability element that the binding manufacturers are held to. Every tech manual for bindings I've ever read only refers to specific manufacturer's branded grease and their part number for ordering by the shop.

And brakes for a bike that goes 50mph down a hill on pavement near cars?

Clarification of my hasty point: When I buy a set of disc brakes for my bike, the mfr provides lots of detailed information about - for example - what kind of brake fluid is required. There are tons of DIY videos, posts, tool kits, and other resources out there re: how to bleed the brakes, how to test, "dos and don'ts," etc. I don't see any obvious pushback from bike shops and/or manufacturers on this. They seem to want the general public to have the best available info. Now obviously no one is encouraging amateur mechanics with low competence / confidence to work on their brakes. Never have, never will. Everyone agrees that taking your bike to a good shop if you aren't willing to take on the learning curve and responsibility is the right course of action. Not disputing that. My point is that no one is trying to bury the key info needed to work on the brakes effectively and safely.

 

[scott43]

Clarification of my hasty point: When I buy a set of disc brakes for my bike, the mfr provides lots of detailed information about - for example - what kind of brake fluid is required. There is tons of DIY videos, posts, tool kits, and other resources out there re: how to bleed the brakes, how to test, "dos and don'ts," etc. I don't see any obvious pushback from bike shops and/or manufacturers on this. They seem to want the general public to have the best available info. Now obviously no one is encouraging amateur mechanics with low competence / confidence to work on their brakes. Never have, never will. Everyone agrees that taking your bike to a good shop if you aren't willing to take on the learning curve and responsibility is the right course of action. Not disputing that.

Glad you clarified there..cuz I've seen some stuff in the bike world....