Easiest to use side edge guide for diamond stone

[François Pugh]

If you ONLY need 1 setting like 3degrees, just go with the fixed and a clamp.

And if you only need 1 stone, like a medium, you can just leave it clamped and it'll be simpler than fussing around with the multitool.

The fixed angle allows you to use bigger stones/ expose different parts of the stone,.
which in my opinion, ends up making it easier to use than the multitool.

although the multitool holds the stone, it typically holds it only exactly in 1 spot. Once the working spot on the multitool is worn down, its much more fussy to adjust the stone to expose new stone, and making sure its aligned again, and you're wasting a lot of effort figuring out why its not cutting.

If you need multiple angles and switch a lot then the multitool may show more benefits.

And if you need three settings like 3 degrees, 2 degrees, and 1 degree, just buy three fixed angle guides. Seriously.

 

[François Pugh]

Fixed guides are fine if you use the same guide to set the edge angle, but IME shop tunes always come back at approximately 2 degrees, and only randomly exactly match a fixed guide. I've never had a shop tune that matched my 3 degree tool.
I like the Ski Visions tool. It does the base and side at the same time, with stones that can be flattened as they wear, and I can adjust it to match any angles I use a fine stone on the base and the coarse stone on the side.
I couple of years ago I switxhed to a Swix EVO. That's faster, but I'm not sure it makes a better edge than I can get with careful use of the Ski Vision tool.

dm

If your shop hands you back a 2 degree side edge when you specified a 3 degree side edge, or if they hand you back a 1 degree base bevel when you specified 0.5 degree base bevel, you need to find a new shop.

 

[mdf]

And cut proof gloves. That saved me a trip to the ER the first time I used them.

dm

True. You can get them as "mechanics gloves" in the hardware store.
Or use the ones you find lying around in your tool box.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Drill a hole through the diamond stone and fixed guide and bolt them together so you can spin the stone perpendicular to tune or horizontal to store in a pocket.

The bigger problem is that without a bench and vise, a beginner tuner will just hack or round the edges of a loose ski and mess up even more around the bindings.

 

[Johnny V.]

Brake retainers - #82 rubber bands.
$12 and you're good for a long time.

Always laugh when I see them listed in a tuning catalog @1.00 each......................

 

[KingGrump]

Either go fixed guide with spring clamp or Beast. Advantage to spring clamp is it forces you to learn the feel of the tool. That can be frustrating too.

Ahhh..., the elusive feel.
I grew up using tools. Made a living with tools. Frequently forget most people don't have much exposure to tools to develop the "feel."

Had a friend over past weekend to mount up bindings on her new skis. She wanted to learn how. Easy set up with binding jig & step drill bits. Demo couple holes and handed it over to her. Watching her using the drill was painful. Had to teach her how to use the drill properly. Develop the feel. Some of it is hearing too.

Always laugh when I see them listed in a tuning catalog @1.00 each......................

Those guys have to put food on the table too.

 

[KingGrump]

True. You can get them as "mechanics gloves" in the hardware store.
Or use the ones you find lying around in your tool box.

Awww c'mon. Gloves? Seriously?

 

[jmills115]

The Sidecut guides with the trigger clamp caught my eye but having SVST guides already I won’t be buying one anytime soon.
Already owning a Tools4boards roto handle and being impressed with the quality of it, I didn’t hesitate when I saw the Switch Cut for $25. I bought it for the 7° guide to upgrade from fingernail files (thanks KG) that I was using with a Panzer for sidewall trimming.

https://www.sidecut.com/product/FG_WC_TC.html

 

[mdf]

The Sidecut guides with the trigger clamp caught my eye but having SVST guides already I won’t be buying one anytime soon.
Already owning a Tools4boards roto handle and being impressed with the quality of it, I didn’t hesitate when I saw the Switch Cut for $25. I bought it for the 7° guide to upgrade from fingernail files (thanks KG) that I was using with a Panzer for sidewall trimming.
View attachment 148796

https://www.sidecut.com/product/FG_WC_TC.html

So how do you like the Switch? Do you use it for anything other than sidewall planing?
I was intrigued when it was introduced, but thought it looked like it has way too many chances to get out of alignment.

 

[jmills115]

So how do you like the Switch? Do you use it for anything other than sidewall planing?
I was intrigued when it was introduced, but thought it looked like it has way too many chances to get out of alignment.

It seems solid and well built but I’ve only used it for the sidewall and don’t have plans to try the 2° or 3° on the side edge.
I think it would take a solid drop to knock it out of alignment and I’m sure I’ll test that sooner than later.

 

[James]

Awww c'mon. Gloves? Seriously?

Probably better to let the bits of fiberglass and metal get into the skin for awhile. Have to learn somehow.
I think the worst is the aluminum/fiberglass from cleaning up the top edge. (Good thing it’s not titanium)

I did actually pick up a pair of Swix gloves on ridiculous sale because I got tired of the stuff in the hands. But I always forget to put them on.

Oh, and get a Sharpie or the like to color the edge. It helps to see how the file is cutting. Most important for base edge if you ever do it. Eventually she’ll pick up the change in sheen of the metal.

 

[KingGrump]

Probably better to let the bits of fiberglass and metal get into the skin for awhile. Have to learn somehow.
I think the worst is the aluminum/fiberglass from cleaning up the top edge. (Good thing it’s not titanium)

I did actually pick up a pair of Swix gloves on ridiculous sale because I got tired of the stuff in the hands. But I always forget to put them on.

Oh, and get a Sharpie or the like to color the edge. It helps to see how the file is cutting. Most important for base edge if you ever do it. Eventually she’ll pick up the change in sheen of the metal.

I have probably more than 15 different types of work gloves for different purposes. Working with wood and skis are the couple incidences when I do not wear gloves. Dulls the feel.

When I am working on skis, I generally use a 4" natural bristle brush to remove the cuttings. The aluminum and fiberglass fragments are nasty. I'll usually do a quick vac (15 sec) of the the bench between skis. Keeps the debris at bay and I can eyeball the new cuttings for progress verification.

I am very methodical when I am working. Seldom get cuts or splinters in my hands. Just years of habit.
I used to train others the same method of work. I called it "Don't rush. Slow down so you can get more done."

 

[oldschoolskier]

I have one of the multi angle edge/base guides and they are very functional, adjusted gently not an issue, inexpensive and a good start to learn tuning without a painful expense.

Yes, there are better specific tools, but truly it's in the hands of the user that gets the result, learn simple, master it, upgrade to perfect it as and when needed.

Your kids are better of learning how files and stones cut to leave little or no burr, this alone will serve them better in the long run. Look for threads "my ski after a tune....sucks" to get an idea of how many still don't grasp this concept (including shops).

Keep the expense down, go slow and easy, practice and make it fun. They might like it and become the best tuners out there.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Gloves, ah there is an issue. Can provide protection, can cause risk.

If you are using any rotary tools, don't as it can pull body parts into the blades or pinch points. Similar to loose clothing or hair.

 

[Dave Marshak]

If your shop hands you back a 2 degree side edge when you specified a 3 degree side edge, or if they hand you back a 1 degree base bevel when you specified 0.5 degree base bevel, you need to find a new shop.

Unkess you shuffle your skis in with a batch of U16 slalom skis, or maybe if you are on a first name basis with the machine operator, you're gonna get what everyone else gets, which may or may not match your 2 degree file guide.

dm

 

[Dave Marshak]

True. You can get them as "mechanics gloves" in the hardware store.
Or use the ones you find lying around in your tool box.

Not mechanics gloves. You need level 5 cut resistant gloves. I've never seen them in a hardware store. Leather work gloves probably work too, but they're too hard to work with.

dm

 

[Dave Marshak]

Awww c'mon. Gloves? Seriously?

Yup. All you gotta do is slip once when you're scraping wax and you'll wear them every time. Ask me how I know.

dm

 

[Dwight]

Another place to get edge tools. I've been using racewax.com, well before they also became a sponsor.

Single Angle Edge Tools for Skis Snowboards

Precision angle base and side bevel tools with files and sidewall strippers for ski and snowboard race edge performance.

www.racewax.com

 

[mdf]

Not mechanics gloves. You need level 5 cut resistant gloves. I've never seen them in a hardware store. Leather work gloves probably work too, but they're too hard to work with.

dm

I have level 3 cut resistant gloves that I bought at home depot. (I was originally looking for general purpose leather work gloves, but they were sold out -- gardening season. These were in a different part of the store. I later repurposed them to be dedicated to ski tuning.) They are thin and grippy.

Three is less than five, but its more than zero.

Searching on line, I see that level 4 and up have fiberglass or steel woven into the fabric. Sounds less agile.

I do forget to wear them sometimes. And I have cut myself on a ski edge.

 

[Eric@ict]

Awww c'mon. Gloves? Seriously?

To each his own. I’m not a fan of them either but people are all about PPE today. I like to feel my work as well as see and hear. Guess I’m in the old school club.