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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) European ski towns to consider purchasing a ski condo/home in?

surfandski

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I wanted to pick your brains and get some recommendations on European ski towns that may fit our interests. We will be turning 50 in a couple years and are working towards our goal of being fully retired then, or shortly after, so we've been doing a lot of research on places we'd like to own a ski home in to spend the Winter months. Due to the logistical benefits, we had been really leaning towards Canada, but with their covid restrictions likely not going away any time soon, it is now off our list. With almost all European countries now open for business without any covid restrictions (https://www.euronews.com/travel/2022/06/20/what-s-the-latest-on-european-travel-restrictions), and with the strength of the dollar, we think there could be some real bargains over the next year or two, so we want to do our research now to plan a few trips to check the areas out. Here are a few things to consider when making recommendations:

1. Ease of travel - this may be less critical once we are retired and are spending months, rather than weeks, but it's still important. We've only traveled to Europe once so I'm not up on if there are certain airports that are generally cheaper to fly in and out of (most likely out of Atlanta since we are in WNC, or Tampa if we are at out beach house). Ideally, we could fly into an airport and take a train or have some other means to get us to our home where we'd keep a SUV. Without getting too political (MODERATORS- you have to agree that it's impossible to not bring this up given what the World is going through today from the decisions made over the past 2.5 years), I have to mention that any country we'd spend hundreds of thousands on real estate, needs to be one that has hopefully learned valuable lessons from how they handled the pandemic and wouldn't be quick to close their borders again. **I realize we aren't supposed to discuss politics here so please limit comments to only how the political landscape of that country could affect one's ability to come and go freely in the future and don't turn it into a political debate.**

2. Style of resort - We don't go skiing to be pampered so quality of terrain, quality of snow and not overly crowded slopes is much more important to us than a resort's amenities. So, the further away from the "Vail" type experience, the better. We also aren't too into the après scene so lots of bars and clubs aren't appealing, though we definitely love good food (especially if it isn't a $35 "Costco" burger). Don't get me wrong, a town with character is a plus but hopefully one where the focus is on the mountains and outdoor activities, rather than a place for the "elite" to dress up and be seen.

3. The cost and variety of skiing - I understand that generally, lift tickets are quite a bit less expensive than in the US but what about season passes? It's not a requirement but it would be nice to live in a place that has a pass that allows you to ski multiple mountains. What are some of the options for multi-resort passes in Europe?

4. Cost of living - What countries/towns can you get the most home/condo for the money? Getting from the US to our home will play into this cost, especially if our kids decide to live in the US and are traveling back and forth to see us. When we aren't outside skiing, kayaking, MTBing, climbing, flying, etc, we are pretty much homebodies so other than going out to eat occasionally, we don't do a ton of activities that cost money. The cost of food at supermarkets is obviously important if certain places are substantially more expensive.

5. Language - It would be nice to live in an area where it's not too hard to get by so that we could communicate with the locals. We've lived in several countries in Central and S. America and a great part of the adventure is getting to know the local people and cultures. We are fluent in Spanish, which means we can get by in Italian and Portuguese, so that could get us a jump start on the language barrier but it's not a high enough priority to sacrifice better terrain options if Spain or Portugal don't have much skiing. This brings up France....due to some hostility towards Americans (especially those who don't speak French), it's never been a place we've given any thought to travel to as tourists but ever since watching Blizzard of Aahhs as a kid, I've known that France offers up terrain that more than makes up for some inconveniences. Not having spent much time researching skiing in Europe, France seems to offer a lot so what are some of the best "skier's towns" in France where lowkey expats can fit in?

We really don't know much about the ski scene over there so we may be way off in a lot of our preconceived ideas and realize there are probably a lot of countries that check the boxes on our list that we never thought of. Thanks for your help!
 

fatbob

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Yeah - you're not going to get anywhere you can guarantee politically to not get locked out of if something like the pandemic repeats. But you can do yourselves favours by being fully vaxxed etc. Maybe somewhere like Bosnia- Herzogovina or Bulgaria might be more relaxed.

Value for money wise you can probably get most in Italy followed in order by France, Austria and Switzerland of the main alpine nations. Places like Slovenia and Southern Poland you could probably get a lot.

Pyrenees likely to be better value I suspect and quite an interesting place to be where you wouldn't be just another loudmouthed yank ;)

Seriously though France isn't specifically anti American. They are suspicious of all outsiders but worst of all Parisians.

Seasonpass wise everywhere has a seasonpass for between Eur600- 1000ish. Some are better than others with reciprocal resorts. Austria has a Tirolcars a Salzburg Superski and a really good value seasonpass for Innsbruck residents which includes Wacker FC, ice hockey and Schwimbads. Magic pass in CH is really cheap.
 

Cheizz

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Value for money, cost of living: Italy.

The main ski regions in Italy are: Dolomites (either Dolomiti Superski to the east of Bolzano, or Brenta Dolomites to the West of Bolzano), Ortler/Sondrio region (in terms of skiing, much like the Dolomites, just way less crowded), Valle d'Aosta (Anything from the Monte Bianco/Mont Blanc to Aosta's city resort Pila and places like Monterosa), and Piemonte (Turin is nearby, skiing is great IF the snow falls).

But what kind of skiing are you after? Getting away from crowds kind of dismisses the Dolomites entirely. If you want freeride terrain, Aosta Valley and Piemonte are the way to go.

Or Val d'Isère in France. Not the cheapest place, but one of the best regions in terms of skiing - all kinds of skiing.
 
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surfandski

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Value for money, cost of living: Italy.

The main ski regions in Italy are: Dolomites (either Dolomiti Superski to the east of Bolzano, or Brenta Dolomites to the West of Bolzano), Ortler/Sondrio region (in terms of skiing, much like the Dolomites, just way less crowded), Valle d'Aosta (Anything from the Monte Bianco/Mont Blanc to Aosta's city resort Pila and places like Monterosa), and Piemonte (Turin is nearby, skiing is great IF the snow falls).

But what kind of skiing are you after? Getting away from crowds kind of dismisses the Dolomites entirely. If you want freeride terrain, Aosta Valley and Piemonte are the way to go.

Or Val d'Isère in France. Not the cheapest place, but one of the best regions in terms of skiing - all kinds of skiing.
Thanks! Italy is definitely high on our list as my wife's grandparents immigrated from there so the culture/language is familiar and it doesn't get much better when it comes to food/wine. Are the Dolomites crowded even midweek? Terrain wise, a variety would be good as my wife & daughter prefer groomers while my son and I prefer off-piste and parks. I realize Europe isn't a powder mecca but do certain regions tend to get more (and dryer) powder than others? And of the powder regions, are their certain ones that don't get tracked out as fast? When it comes to powder days, I'll take mediocre terrain that doesn't get tracked out in a couple hours over the best terrain that you may only get a couple runs on. Powder won't be at the forefront of our buying decision but would sway us in a direction if a couple locations are similar otherwise.
 

scott43

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Don't go to Austria, very low English speaking population there. Perhaps ok in resorts but otherwise, nicht. With the climate going the way it is, choose higher locales. As for Canada, there are already too many people here. :ogbiggrin:
 

Rod9301

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I bought a house in luz St Sauveur, French pyrenees. 350,000 usd, 5 bedroom 3 bathrooms, 2,000 sq feet.

Restaurants, half the us price.

Bareges, out resort has over 80 couloirs, from steep to very steep. Nobody but us ski them, untracked for weeks.
 
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surfandski

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I bought a house in luz St Sauveur, French pyrenees. 350,000 usd, 5 bedroom 3 bathrooms, 2,000 sq feet.

Restaurants, half the us price.

Bareges, out resort has over 80 couloirs, from steep to very steep. Nobody but us ski them, untracked for weeks.
I haven't looked into that area, but I did spend quite a bit of time today researching Italy, and specifically Valle d'Aosta, and was amazed at how affordable homes are there. The area you mentioned sounds interesting as well. I like the proximity to Spain. How does the skiing compare there to Chamonix or the Italian resorts around Aosta?
 
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surfandski

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We decided tonight that I'm going to take my son in March for a couple weeks to ski and get a feel for which towns/resorts interest us the most. At the moment, I'm leaning towards several days around Valle d'Aosta hitting Monterosa, Cervinia, Pila, La Thuile and Monte Bianco. Then definitely a few days next door at Chamonix and then maybe make a trek over to Andermatt since it's on the Epic pass. We've had Ikon passes the past 4 years but just bought Epic passes last weekend. Had I known this trip was coming up I definitely would have gone with Ikons again with Chamonix, Zermatt, Cervinia and Dolomites on there. I guess it's kind of a wash though as the lift tickets are so affordable that paying for some tickets will still probably make the Epic less expensive than Ikon. Of course, this trip may change as more people weigh in and make suggestions but this would give me a chance to scout out this area. It's hard to get a feel for an area watching videos and reading up on the internet but so far, what interests me about the Aosta region is it being in Italy (my wife's homeland) but yet being so close to Mount Blanc, Chamonix, Zermatt, the Matterhorn, etc. and being less than 2 hours from either Geneva or Milan.

Flights are about the same (less than $750) into Geneva, Milan or Zurich so I'm trying to figure out the best way to get around. I love to drive and explore so I usually rent cars everywhere we go so that I can drive everywhere and explore but given the price of cars, I think it makes sense to take some trains around certain areas (Milan to Aosta if we fly into Milan, Geneva to Chamonix if we fly into Geneva, or Zurich to Andermatt if we start our trip there and then maybe another train on to Chamonix) and then maybe when I'm in Aosta, I can just rent a car for a few days to really explore that area while looking at some actual properties. The one leg that doesn't appear to be as easy logistically is Aosta to Andermatt as there isn't a direct train but maybe a bus to Chamonix would get me to where I could take a train. Is Andermatt-Sedrun worth the trip since it's on the Epic pass even if Switzerland isn't a Country that we'd probably be looking to buy a home in? If not, maybe we check out some other Italian or French resorts. Thanks for everyone's help so far!
 
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surfandski

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This would be my go to...
Any specific reason? What are the biggest pros of that area? I definitely like its proximity to Spain since we are fluent in Spanish. I'm still floored at how affordable houses are in some of these areas. For some reason, I had it in my mind that homes were a lot more expensive in Europe and thought it would take a recession to bring them down to Park City/Breck type prices, but they aren't even close. I think this may expedite our purchase plans once we decide on a location.
 

Cheizz

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For Valle d'Aosta, Milan is the closet and most convenient airport. From Switzerland you always need one of the big tunnels (Mt. Blanc or St. Bernard).
Also, from Milan it's only 3 hours the other way to reach Val di Sole and the Brenta Dolomites.
 

Cheizz

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As for freeride spots in Italy - I can only share my thoughts on the Dolomites. Maybe @Nobody can weigh in on other Italian regions?

Some areas in Dolomiti Superski are more touristy/crowded than others. The Sella Ronda areas (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba/Marmolada and Val di Fassa/Belvedere) and Cortina d'Ampezzo are the main tourist attractions, even mid-week. The areas north and south of there are much quieter. Places like Vigo di Fassa, Pozza di Fassa, Alpe Lusia (Moena) Alpe di Cermis, Passo San Pellegrino, San Martino di Castrozza are great villages and ski areas that just see locals and true Italy-lovers. The big travel agencies don't offer properties there, so much fewer tourists go there.

For resort powder skiing (i.e. lines spotted from the lifts and therefore easily accessible), San Pellegrino is great. If you want skiable couloirs, go to San Martino. There are some famous runs elsewhere - even in the crowded areas - but they take a lot of snow, quite a hike, and often a guide.

Keep in mind, though, that in the Dolomites, skiing off the groomers is not a common thing. In places like Chamonix, Verbier, St. Anton, Val d'Isère and to an extend Valle d'Aosta, it's common. In the Dolomites, it is not. Things tracking out won't be a problem. Finding the terrain (in which it is not FORBIDDEN to go off-piste - in many placing you're skiing in a Natural Park or otherwise protected area) is a challenge. San Martino and San Pellegrino have freeride facilities on the mountain. Those are the only areas I know they have that kind of stuff.

When the snow comes in though, you can find powder to ski anywhere...
 

scott43

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Any specific reason? What are the biggest pros of that area? I definitely like its proximity to Spain since we are fluent in Spanish. I'm still floored at how affordable houses are in some of these areas. For some reason, I had it in my mind that homes were a lot more expensive in Europe and thought it would take a recession to bring them down to Park City/Breck type prices, but they aren't even close. I think this may expedite our purchase plans once we decide on a location.
Well I have some French (we learn it in school..), they have big mountains there, it's much less touristy than the Alps, great cycling, access to the Med and Atlantic, relatively low prices, access to Spain. The skiing is more fickle due to latitude but the other bits make up for it, especially if you have date flexibility as in retirement. I have family near Salzburg so that may tilt things but I'm fairly sure they'd actually use a place in the Pyrenees just as much...
 

James

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I think it makes sense to take some trains around certain areas (Milan to Aosta if we fly into Milan, Geneva to Chamonix if we fly into Geneva,
GVA to Chamonix is like 4 trains and over 3 hrs. The van shuttles from the airport are under 1 1/2 hrs. They packed them like sardines before covid, but they were easy and cheap back then.

I’ve taken the train from Martigny, Sui to Chamonix. That’s coming from the other direction of the Cham Valley, Argentière instead of Les Houches. It’s a gorgeous ride if you can see with the weather.

You can also drive from Martigny - Chamonix over the mountain. Done that a couple times. Only recommended if it’s clear and dry or well above freezing.

Chamonix is kind of like the Aspen area without a namesake mountain. People in the US just generally say Chamonix, meaning the Chamonix valley. You can take the Aiguille du Midi tram from flat ground in town and go up 9,200ft in two stages. That’s pretty crazy. To ski you would need a guide on the glacier.
 

Rod9301

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Skiing on piste in bareges is just ok.

But if you like steep couloirs, easily accesable, it's the best place in Europe. And very few people ski them. Untracked for weeks.

Snow is Maritime, like California. Lots of it.
So much mower avalanche danger then Colorado or the Alps.
 

SBrown

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You can also drive from Martigny - Chamonix over the mountain. Done that a couple times. Only recommended if it’s clear and dry or well above freezing.
+1!! Amazing drive, but wow. I have never been on such tight switchbacks. This is one of those drives that shows the tidiness of Switzerland, too. You’re going along, in FR, then you’re in CH, and suddenly everything is so blasted neat. They don’t even need signs, you’re obviously in CH.
 
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surfandski

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What restrictions are still left?

Sorry for the side track. Was planning to ski in Canada come winter.
I have to choose my words carefully as I don't want to get banned but basically you can't enter if you aren't fully vaccinated (and I believe the same goes for the US). Before a debate breaks out, I'm all for people's right to get vaccinated, or not (same with getting the flu shot, or not), so I equally support those who weighed the pros and cons and got it, as well as those who chose to get antibodies the natural way. I'll leave it at that as I feel it's a personal decision but I will say that my wife and I have never been healthier than the past 27 months since our bodies kicked covid's butt naturally. It's like our immune system got supercharged as I don't ever remember going this long without the flu or even the common cold and in our business we are around 100 different people every day. Enough about that as I assume most here are vaccinated so cheers!
 

SBrown

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I keep hearing about Alagna. Go check it out.
 
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surfandski

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GVA to Chamonix is like 4 trains and over 3 hrs. The van shuttles from the airport are under 1 1/2 hrs. They packed them like sardines before covid, but they were easy and cheap back then.

I’ve taken the train from Martigny, Sui to Chamonix. That’s coming from the other direction of the Cham Valley, Argentière instead of Les Houches. It’s a gorgeous ride if you can see with the weather.

You can also drive from Martigny - Chamonix over the mountain. Done that a couple times. Only recommended if it’s clear and dry or well above freezing.

Chamonix is kind of like the Aspen area without a namesake mountain. People in the US just generally say Chamonix, meaning the Chamonix valley. You can take the Aiguille du Midi tram from flat ground in town and go up 9,200ft in two stages. That’s pretty crazy. To ski you would need a guide on the glacier.
Good to know. The only time I've been to Europe, I rented a car so I haven't taken a train since I lived in Chile. I had heard how great the transportation is in Europe so figured taking some trains would make sense but maybe I should just rent a car the whole time. Or fly into Milan and take a train up to Valle d'Aosta and then rent a car from there to go exploring for a week.

While looking at flights, I noticed it's about the same price whether we fly in and out of Milan or fly into Milan or Zurich and out the other. Is Andermatt worth visiting for a few days or is it just mediocre and we'd be better served exploring other parts of Italy or France (maybe Les Tres Vallees or Val d'Isere? It would really just be to see Switzerland since I don't think it's a place we'd be interested in buying a home in. But if Andermatt is cool, it would be nice to ski Italy, France and Switzerland and get a feel for the 3. Thanks!
 

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