Masters GS skis: glossary request ('cheater', 'tweener', 'masters', etc)

[DocGKR]

Concur!

The 65mm wide 182/25m Rossi/Dynastar is far better for racing than any of the 68-71mm so called "Masters" GS skis...

 

[TaosN]

Thanks everyone for the advice, they are ordered and on the way from Start Haus

 

[James]

when I go to Rossignols website I see this:

Off topic, but I saw that mogul ski in the store last season. Beautifully made ski. If I had the extra cash I would’ve bought it to take a chance on.

Weight isn’t all that important, unless w’re old and bad. Then weight can make up for lack of speed, strength and/or skill. Fede and Tessa are 125ish lbs!

I’ve seen Brignone up close at Killington in street clothes. She really is tiny. Worley is much stockier. Bassino looks much taller, I looked it up she’s 5’6”, 168cm. She’s fairly slight too.

You would not pick them out on the street and think they were world class athletes. Of course many gymnasts are seemingly tiny also.
Now Vhlova’s a different story.

 

[TaosN]

View attachment 231080
Off topic, but I saw that mogul ski in the store last season. Beautifully made ski. If I had the extra cash I would’ve bought it to take a chance on.

Skis that are just "pretty" are always tempting, a local shop had a pair of 185 Stockli SX FIS skis in a beautiful green color way that was genuinely tempting.

No idea what I would actually use them for, but seeing something in person certainly makes avoiding an impulse buy more difficult

 

[wolcoma]

I usually run GS on a 25-27M in the 183 to 188 length depending on the course set. I have tried all the Masters race skis and they just have way too much side cut with tips in the range of 114-118MM which are not stable and over turn in a real GS course. Most USSA or FIS rated skis are 99-103 MM range in the tip. The reality is the vast majority of racers in the United States are not racing FIS or only a few FIS races with the rest competing in USSA, high school, and other club racing. Therefore it would be nice if the ski companies came out with some GS skis maybe more in the 105-108 tip width range for easier hook up. I am seeing more Masters racers on the Nordica which I think is 188-190 range with a 25M. I think Atomic also has a more in between GS ski with a 25M. If there was a 188 GS ski with a 23-25M radius those would probably be great for Masters and beer league racing.

 

[DocGKR]

Yes indeed.

Fortunately there are a fair number of good GS skis in that range: Atomic 183/24m & 187/26m, Dynastar/Rossi 182/25m & 185/27m, Fischer 183/25.3 & 188/27m, Head 186/25m, Nordica 188/25m, Stockli 184/25.5m, Volkl 183/25m & 188/27.5m.

Masters GS skis: glossary request ('cheater', 'tweener', 'masters', etc)

Hi Bradley, do you know of any X16 heal pieces for sale? Mine also failed on 1st click of season. I don't, nor would I seek them out given the failures. I know this is a US shop, but a quick search turned up this: https://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/store/Atomic_Race_X_19_Yellow_VAR.html For...

www.skitalk.com

 

[TaosN]

Possibly dumb questions:

For attaching the SPX15 to the R22 plate, can I just use a normal screwdriver or should I use something with a torque setting? Should I use Loctite or similar on the screws?

How many times can I safely move the binding from one set of holes to another on the plate? Is there any sort of recommended limit or similar?

 

[wnyskier]

Possibly dumb questions:

For attaching the SPX15 to the R22 plate, can I just use a normal screwdriver or should I use something with a torque setting? Should I use Loctite or similar on the screws?

How many times can I safely move the binding from one set of holes to another on the plate? Is there any sort of recommended limit or similar?

Not a dumb question at all. The R22 plate is molded with metal inserts for the mounting screws, so the bindings can be mounted and remounted many times. This is an advantage when traveling with many pairs of skis on the racing circuit, as race bindings are heavy and also take up a lot of room in a ski bag compared with "flat" skis. So mounting and remounting is not an uncommon practice. It also makes it easy to experiment with binding mounting points, if you feel so inclined.

You will want to purchase a nice Posi-drive screwdriver, #4 tip IIRC. This is an investment that will pay for itself many times over. There are few things worse than stripping the head of a binding screw. It will happen, but only at the most inconvenient time.

I've never seen a torque spec for the screws, but I generally run the screws in using a drill with a light clutch setting and then tighten fully by hand. The risk of stripping the screw head or insert thread will be low.

Loctite is an option. If you choose to use it then get "blue" (242?) as it is vibration resistant, but can be easily "broken loose" and the screws removed. I personally don't use it on my R22/SPX/PX systems as I haven't had issues with screws backing off. However, YMMV.

Hope this helps.

 

[James]

#3 Pozi

 

[Burton]

a local shop had a pair of 185 Stockli SX FIS skis in a beautiful green color way that was genuinely tempting.

No idea what I would actually use them for

You would use them for hauling ass and ripping turns. Those are awesome skis.

Regarding mounting bindings on the R22s, yes, you need a #3 Pozi and the metal inserts in the plates are unthreaded (unlike the old R20s which in my mind were better), so make sure you have the binding screw lined up vertically and expect some resistance the first time you thread the screw. You might even consider driving a binding screw into each appropriate hole in the plate to pre-thread the plate prior to putting the binding in place and actually mounting it. Torque spec is firmly hand-tightened. Blue Loctite is a good idea but not essential.

 

[James]

You would use them for hauling ass and ripping turns. Those are awesome skis.

Would you go forward at all on the mount?
There was someone here who had a real comp one from several years ago, in I think 192.

 

[TaosN]

Regarding mounting bindings on the R22s, yes, you need a #3 Pozi and the metal inserts in the plates are unthreaded (unlike the old R20s which in my mind were better), so make sure you have the binding screw lined up vertically and expect some resistance the first time you thread the screw. You might even consider driving a binding screw into each appropriate hole in the plate to pre-thread the plate prior to putting the binding in place and actually mounting it. Torque spec is firmly hand-tightened. Blue Loctite is a good idea but not essential.

I see, if the holes are not already threaded I might take these to a professional for at least the first mounting.

 

[markojp]

Skis that are just "pretty" are always tempting, a local shop had a pair of 185 Stockli SX FIS skis in a beautiful green color way that was genuinely tempting.

No idea what I would actually use them for, but seeing something in person certainly makes avoiding an impulse buy more difficult

Skier Cross.

 

[scrubadub]

Might be too early to start shopping for skis (!) but I'm planning to join a masters group next season. My primary goal by far is skills development and the program has dedicated time for drills as well as running gates.

I was initially planning on the Rossi/Dynastar 182/25 but one of the coaches suggested 183/23 or 180-ish/21.

@DocGKR and others, couple of questions:

1. My search-fu may just be not great, but I can find the Atomic 183/24 fairly easily (including one in the classifieds though with the X12 bindings) and the blue Head e-speed Pro. Not seeing much else (eg Fischer Masters).

Thoughts between the two for skills? I am leaning towards the Head because it's a true 65 mm and it has the shorter radius but it sounds like the flex on the Atomic 183/24 may compensate?

2. For the Head, any reasons for me to choose the 180/20.5 rather than the 185/21.7? The latter seems reasonable for both training and running gates.

Thanks!

 

[markojp]

Might be too early to start shopping for skis (!) but I'm planning to join a masters group next season. My primary goal by far is skills development and the program has dedicated time for drills as well as running gates.

I was initially planning on the Rossi/Dynastar 182/25 but one of the coaches suggested 183/23 or 180-ish/21.

@DocGKR and others, couple of questions:

1. My search-fu may just be not great, but I can find the Atomic 183/24 fairly easily (including one in the classifieds though with the X12 bindings) and the blue Head e-speed Pro. Not seeing much else (eg Fischer Masters).

Thoughts between the two for skills? I am leaning towards the Head because it's a true 65 mm and it has the shorter radius but it sounds like the flex on the Atomic 183/24 may compensate?

2. For the Head, any reasons for me to choose the 180/20.5 rather than the 185/21.7? The latter seems reasonable for both training and running gates.

Thanks!

How big are you? What boot?

 

[scrubadub]

How big are you? What boot?

5’10” 175-180 lbs, 27.5 boots / 315 bsl.

I don’t have race boots yet - planning to hit up Brett in Park City at some point in the off season.

 

[markojp]

5’10” 175-180 lbs, 27.5 boots / 315 bsl.

I don’t have race boots yet - planning to hit up Brett in Park City at some point in the off season.

Any race background? Masters beer league, or FIS?

 

[scrubadub]

Any race background? Masters beer league, or FIS?

Nope.

Just to add some details that may or may not help, been skiing mostly off-piste at Alta for the last few years. But my daughter is racing U14 and I liked racing against her (poorly) on the Deer Valley NASTAR side by side course. Also been helping out at the races with slipping/hand-timing/gats judging and figured since I’m spending so much time on hard pack I should actually learn how to ski properly. She’s been “coaching” (aka heckling) me on carving drills.

I’m planning to join the Park City Masters group as they have a structured drill and gate schedule. I’ve heard they’re welcoming of total newbies. Will still skip training though for Alta powder days though…

 

[markojp]

Gut says 180 eSpeed Pro to learn on if you go the Head route.

 

[trailtrimmer]

Nope.

Just to add some details that may or may not help, been skiing mostly off-piste at Alta for the last few years. But my daughter is racing U14 and I liked racing against her (poorly) on the Deer Valley NASTAR side by side course. Also been helping out at the races with slipping/hand-timing/gats judging and figured since I’m spending so much time on hard pack I should actually learn how to ski properly. She’s been “coaching” (aka heckling) me on carving drills.

I’m planning to join the Park City Masters group as they have a structured drill and gate schedule. I’ve heard they’re welcoming of total newbies. Will still skip training though for Alta powder days though…

What are you currently free skiing on?