I just finished a bottle that I didn't take a photo of, but it's worth mentioning as an anti-pattern. This was a Maremma bottling from Mazzei, of Fonterutoli fame. Depending on the vintage, it's called "
Tirreno" or "Tirrenico." Going back in time, I've been a big Fonterutoli fan. I always thought they did "international" the
right way. All the local soul but none of the rustic cruft.
Well, based on this wine they've jumped the shark. Big, ripe, glossy, monolithic, correct, completely unmoving. It didn't sing. Then, after two days the flaws really surfaced. The baked prune juice qualities were starting to emerge, and along with them its inability to develop into anything interesting.
I think it's good, once in a while, to highlight problem wines among the winners.
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Speaking of winners, this bottle (below) was definitely a winner. Some time with air just revealed more and more depth and balance. Upon opening it just seemed like a good high-value southern Rhone - Gigondas, Vacqueyras, the like. I was a bit surprised at how young it seemed for a six year old wine. The next day the structure and length of the thing really emerged. The layers of tannins and the upright muscular quality of the fruit really reminded me of a big northern Medoc. Just regal, and crazy good for $16.99. I bought more.
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