Two Subarus blow up in a day

[crgildart]

My 09 with 83K has sketchy brakes, calipers stick and wreck rear pads and a steering wheel shimmy when braking lightly.. probably a warped rotor from the caliper and pad issues. Already replaced one rear rotor at 40K miles.

Will run for 5K and either use a half quart of oil or a quart and a half depending on things I can't nail down.

Occasionally needs a few ounces of super coolant. I did have dealer change it as recommended at 30k and added more head gasket treatment at 60K. Will change it again around 100K when doing the timing belt... if it hasn't blown up by then.

Needed new power steering and alternator belts at 70K

Has never left me stuck or unable to safely get to amazing ski days and camping locations.. so for now I'm fine with the routine and somewhat less than ideal things that come with owning a Subie.

 

[Monique]

My 09 with 83K has sketchy brakes, calipers stick and wreck rear pads and a steering wheel shimmy when braking lightly.. probably a warped rotor from the caliper and pad issues. Already replaced one rear rotor at 40K miles.

How long are rotors meant to last? (I had a pretty bad steering wheel shimmy they fixed (for now) by grinding down the rotors)

 

[scott43]

With a mid engine set up, who needs AWD and then there is Sport Compact Magazine that once modified an MR2 to 450hp with bolt ons--no need to open up the engine...just sayin'

I looked up some WRX stuff and found this..

Meanwhile, all I could find for the MR2 was this..

 

[David Chaus]

Well, my 2005 Forester is in the shop right now, checking the brakes (I suspect a warped rotor due the vibrations), and for the first time I can recall the check engine light is on. It’s only got 237,774 miles on it.

 

[scott43]

How long are rotors meant to last? (I had a pretty bad steering wheel shimmy they fixed (for now) by grinding down the rotors)

Rotors often aren't actually warped. They get brake pad material deposited on them and over time it builds up into a "lump" that you feel when braking. You can often avoid it by not holding your brake pedal on in one spot after hard braking. Turning the rotor "fixes" it because it removes that lump, and some rotor material obviously.

Rotors are actually wear/thickness limited. If treated properly they can last a remarkably long time.

 

[crgildart]

Turning the rotor "fixes" it because it removes that lump, and some rotor material obviously.

Rotors are actually wear/thickness limited. If treated properly they can last a remarkably long time.

Well, my wheel shimmy only happens when first putting on the brakes and goes away when pushing the pedal harder. It was not resolved and still noticeable IMMEDIATELY after the 3rd brake job and full inspection in under 70K miles. Midas said they turned all the rotors and replaced the pad under the caliper they believe had stuck. Time before that one rotor was replaced.. also due to a stuck caliper.

So, turning the rotors didn't help or they lied to me about checking/turning them all. That's what makes me suspect one is warped. It's also noted on the work paperwork that there was still a wheel shimmy when braking after the work was completed. I gave up and just kept driving it as is..


I'm at 83K. I think at 100K I'll go back to the dealer for timing belt and have the rotors, CV boots, head gasket, etc all checked. At that point I will make a decision to either fix it all or trade it in,,

 

[Bill Talbot]

Rotors often aren't actually warped. They get brake pad material deposited on them and over time it builds up into a "lump" that you feel when braking. You can often avoid it by not holding your brake pedal on in one spot after hard braking. Turning the rotor "fixes" it because it removes that lump, and some rotor material obviously.

Rotors are actually wear/thickness limited. If treated properly they can last a remarkably long time.

Well, maybe. In my part of the world, now that they are 'stripping' the roads with that nasty, corrosive anti-icing treatments my rotors disintegrate and chunks fall off! Really. I'm lucky to get three winter seasons, especially with the rears. Also the type of brake pad material you choose can also greatly effect rotor life. The metallic pads are aggressive and it's not unusual to need to replace the rotors with EACH pad change.

 

[crgildart]

Well, maybe. In my part of the world, now that they are 'stripping' the roads with that nasty, corrosive anti-icing treatments my rotors disintegrate and chunks fall off! Really. I'm lucky to get three winter seasons, especially with the rears. Also the type of brake pad material you choose can also greatly effect rotor life. The metallic pads are aggressive and it's not unusual to need to replace the rotors with EACH pad change.

Ya, I suspect since my brakes have a lifetime guarantee they are using the metallic pads which tear up the rotors, which aren't guaranteed with the rest of the work..

Brakes have been the main disappointment I've had with the vehicle since the first time I drove it in true winter conditions.. It's "jerky" with the system locking and releasing the calipers. Now that we've documented the sticky caliper problem both with my vehicle at Midas and others posting here I suspect the sticking may be causing that herky jerky braking on ice and wet snow..

 

[Bill Miles]

My 2010 Forester (2.5 Auto) with 93K us doing fine. I had some CEL problems which were resolved and the rear brake pads are near needing replacement. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[scott43]

Truth be told, I've been looking at trying to get one of these through BringATrailer.com....
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1989-toyota-mr2-9/

 

[Varmintmist]

How long are rotors meant to last? (I had a pretty bad steering wheel shimmy they fixed (for now) by grinding down the rotors)

Depends on the rotors but mostly on the driver. If you rush to get to red lights and then hammer the brakes, they will be gone faster as will brakes than if you accelerate and let off the gas in preparation of the coming stop.

 

[crgildart]

My 2010 Forester (2.5 Auto) with 93K us doing fine. I had some CEL problems which were resolved and the rear brake pads are near needing replacement. Keeping my fingers crossed.

You're about due for a timing belt. They pretty much fail right around 100K and leave the car dead wherever it happens to be when the big rubber band breaks. It's probably the most expensive routine maintenance thing that's pretty much mandatory with these cars around 100K. I'd rather get mine fixed at a dealer or good Subie specialist BEFORE it breaks so I'm not suddenly stranded along a deserted highway Sunday night in winter whiteout and no way to get home and back to work on time Monday morning.

 

[Bill Miles]

You're about due for a timing belt. They pretty much fail right around 100K and leave the car dead wherever it happens to be when the big rubber band breaks. It's probably the most expensive routine maintenance thing that's pretty much mandatory with these cars around 100K. I'd rather get mine fixed at a dealer or good Subie specialist BEFORE it breaks so I'm not suddenly stranded along a deserted highway Sunday night in winter whiteout and no way to get home and back to work on time Monday morning.

I was planning on replacing at 105K per the owners manual. Nothing I can find online or advice from my local non-dealer shop states earlier, although zi guess it wouln't hurt to be on the safe side. Can you point me to any references for "They pretty much fail right around 100K..."

 

[newfydog]

My sister had the blown up Legacy towed to the nearest dealer, traded it in on a new Crosstrek, and continued on home. The wagon was a 2000, with 160,000 miles.

 

[ScotsSkier]

Truth be told, I've been looking at trying to get one of these through BringATrailer.com....
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1989-toyota-mr2-9/

Yeah, the original was a nice car. My ex had an 88 T-top. We used it to go down to LeMans one year for the 24hr Kart race. Surprising how much gear it can hold. I had my race gear, tools, camping gear, clothes etc and still had room to get quite a lot of wine packed in on the way home!!

Funnily enough I just passed one on a trailer on my way to the Bay this afternoon!!

 

[nay]

or "just broken in" for a Toyota Tacoma

I have four Toyota’s now (one for each driver in my household):

‘95 Land Cruiser @ 240K
‘99 4Runner @ 228K
‘00 Tacoma @ 288K
‘04 Sequoia @ 282K

All four are offroad modified. The last three cost a combined total of $14,500 including significant previous owner upgrades (offroad, audio, upholstery) and baseline maintenance worth at least $5K. I have put about $1,000 into baseline maintenance parts (owner labor) for stuff like timing belt on the Sequoia and 4Runner and valve cover gasket job on the Tacoma.

We don’t really know what “broken in” means yet because these venerable Toyota drivetrain platforms just continue to accrue miles. The biggest risk to these platforms is that Toyota in its push to be #1 is discontinuing critical parts and abandoning a commitment it built over 50 years of deep manufacturing supply chain expertise to keep these truck platforms in particular supported over a 30+ year lifespan.

In doing so, it simply cannot continue the very thing that built the brand. Welcome to GM.

 

[DanoT]

The owner of the brake and muffler shop that I go to says he rarely turns rotors anymore on any car due to the propensity for the now thinner rotor to more easily warp. It is just cheaper to install a new rotor, and replacing rotors in pairs on the same axle will also help with longevity.

 

[Prickly Jones]

Mine has a Pugski sticker on it, so it should be fine.

 

[Philpug]

A Pugski sticker is like a good Matzo Ball soup, it cures all.

 

[Philpug]

As I have said many time here, Japanese cars aren't as reliable as they once were and German and American cars aren't as bad either. Italians, well...if you can't say anything nice....I have had about 15 Subies and about the same in VW's, and I would say I put the same amount of miles on both brands, issues and non ussues were about the same, I would say all in all the most reliable and best car I ever owned was my 2010 Jetta TDI. When replacing it, we looked as new Foresters and Outbacks but as much as we tried, we just could not pull the trigger on one for numerous reasons, CVT, Seats, Oil burning issues and just plain boring.

Subaru ran an ad campaign a few years back that was "It's not a car, it's a Subaru". Well these new ones are just cars and we wanted a Subaru. It shows that we are no longer their market. Well, as they lost us, they gained five more Whole food shopping, lab owning, gluten free owners. I have been driving Subies since the 1980's evey generation they change, the purist clammer "Oh my god, they killed Subaru, I will never buy one again..." and sales go up. The next generation comes out and he purist clammer, again "Oh my god, they killed Subaru, I will never buy one again..." and sales go up. And again and again. For every one of me/us that are lost, they are gaining five more. to paraphrase the Yogi-ism I just used in antother thread, "No one is buying Subaru's any more, they are too popular.."