I'm going to have to read thru the entire thread as well, but I would also add actually measure your boot sole as several models I have looked at of late have been different to the stamped BSL.
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Volkl Piston Race Plate Question
- Thread starter cruxkill0
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I'm going to have to read thru the entire thread as well, but I would also add actually measure your boot sole as several models I have looked at of late have been different to the stamped BSL.
My boot is a size 25, BSL 296. That is what Lange has printed on the boot. If they got that wrong, I would be shocked, but I will check.
You'd be shocked. @Philpug & I recently measured up 3 sets of 25.5 Langes marked 296 only to find each to be ~291mm.
While this should not impact this particular plate mount at that size boot, it can impact other boots which is always why measuring and forward pressure needs to be dialed in.
As I said when we talked, Some of the difference is hope the boot is measured and where from. If you measure just the sole, no matter the brand, you will get a lower number, if you measure from the top of the rear lug, you will get a number that either matches the published number or much closer to it. But jsut as you should have your binding checked and calibrated for the proper release setting to make sure it is accurate, each boot/binding forward pressure should be checked for the proper forward pressure. If you have spent any time on a Huber devices that is used for calibrating bindings, there is a measuring device that is there so EVERY boot gets measured properly.
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The BSL marked on ski boots is only a guide, ISO 5355 does not require that the BSL is marked on the boots. It only states that “The sole lengths of the two ski-boots in a pair shall not differ by more than 2 mm”.
The BSL marked on the boots might be the length of the sole in the mold, if so then the actual BSL will be shorter as there will be some shrinkage. For TPU shrinkage rates of 0.2% - 2.5% depending on the hardness of the TPU being used and the wall thickness of the part being made are to be expected.
The BSL marked on the boots might be the length of the sole in the mold, if so then the actual BSL will be shorter as there will be some shrinkage. For TPU shrinkage rates of 0.2% - 2.5% depending on the hardness of the TPU being used and the wall thickness of the part being made are to be expected.
Again learning so much. Now I understand why shops need the actual boot in the binding to set the forward tension.
25.5 “295mm” Fischer
Regardless I would recommend having the bindings mounted by a certified ski shop. Totem Pole in Ludlow near the access road to Okemo is also a very good race shop in Vermont. About 15 years ago we had a young coach who had a compound fracture (broke his femur) while running GS with the kids because he had his DIN and forward pressure setting too tight on his bindings. I recall he purchased his skis from another coach or racer, and mounted them himself. He never came back to coach and I believe our club had a huge worker's comp claim. The cost for a binding mount is probably less than 5% the cost of an ER visit. Many shops and reps mount bindings for free.
"The cost for a binding mount is probably less than 5% the cost of an ER visit. Many shops and reps mount bindings for free."
The cost is meaningless in terms of sking. Shop is changing 60 dollars for mounting and testing.
Glad I know what to check for in terms of correct placement. Plate mounting is rare compared to track systems. This is why I am waiting 2 to 3 weeks for the experienced techs. The 2 people on-site when I brought them in said they only know how to do track systems. I got the impression they never saw a plate before.
The cost is meaningless in terms of sking. Shop is changing 60 dollars for mounting and testing.
Glad I know what to check for in terms of correct placement. Plate mounting is rare compared to track systems. This is why I am waiting 2 to 3 weeks for the experienced techs. The 2 people on-site when I brought them in said they only know how to do track systems. I got the impression they never saw a plate before.
Again you want a good race shop to mount your race skis. Many of the ski shops today no longer even sell race skis, that's why you want to go with a good race shop like Totem Pole in Ludlow also if you're a Killington skier from NY or NJ the Sports Page in Queensbury just off route 87 is also an excellent ski racing shop. You're really risking injury if you don't have your race skis mounted properly.
While I agree that one should always work with a competent shop, there is nothing inherently difficult about mounting Marker bindings on a piston plate. If anything, it is easier than working with recreational bindings on recreational skis. No need for a binding jig and no need for a drill. All you need to do is take the bindings out of the box and screw them down to the piston plate using the pre-existing holes. Setting the forward pressure and DIN is the same as any other Marker binding.
These are not technically even race skis, they are high end recreational skis, that I think of as a user friendly GS race ski. I will be checking them myself with the knowledge I learned here. Then when the actual season starts, I will have them looked at by a guy at the Camelback Loft onsite ski shop who I know is a real expert, he as been turning my skis for years. He has a pair of Race Tigers himself. I don't take chances with my gear.
Last question. Is it possible to see.or tell what holes the heel piece is in after mounting?
Swap out the rear mounting bolts for floating ones and pull the flex tab entirely & just remove it. I have also taken the metal bands off the sides to have em more "fun".
depends on the boot, but you can quasi see / estimate
Thanks for the reply. I am not understanding what difference the boot would make? Just looking at the ski with bindings mounted, no boot locked in.
If it is mounted using holes #5 for 279-288, there will be one hole visible behind the back of the binding
If it is a typical factory mount, the two fixed rear screws are the ONLY fixed screws. All other points of contact are floating. Swapping these for floating versions would be a pretty bad idea. Removing the rubber tab and pulling off the metal side bars would completely defeat the purpose of the piston plate. If you need to do these sorts of drastic modifications to make the ski "fun", you are probably not on the right ski.
That is a good reference. I will, should, be in hole 6, 296 BSL, so no hole visible ii guess?
I plan to make no modifications to the ski. I want it how they built it. Fast and stiff.
I plan to make no modifications to the ski. I want it how they built it. Fast and stiff.
I am also on #6. Holes are spaced 10mm (roughly 3/8"). This photo is from the back of the binding to the back of the piston plate.
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