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How's the edge tuning quality by Razor tune?

James

Out There
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Dec 2, 2015
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24,987
How to screw up with a power tool?
Hmmm… let’s count the ways
Keep in mind that RT is a tiny operation, maybe one guy?
Yes, maybe 4-5 yrs ago he was going around to race demo days, (junior), demonstrating it. I stopped and had him do the skis the guy I was skiing with.
 

Burton

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pretty easy to have the tool slip off the edge
Exactly that. A few years back I had a Swix rep come in and deliver a tuning demo to parents, and he made the Evo look like a game changer. A few parents bought them and then proceeded to wreck skis. If you slip with the Evo, the grinding wheel slides across the ski edge. If you slip with the RT, it slips away from the edge.

quick edit: it is, in fact, possible to screw up with the RT, I've done it. But if you pay a modicum of attention, it's hard to mess up
 

S.H.

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Exactly that. A few years back I had a Swix rep come in and deliver a tuning demo to parents, and he made the Evo look like a game changer. A few parents bought them and then proceeded to wreck skis. If you slip with the Evo, the grinding wheel slides across the ski edge. If you slip with the RT, it slips away from the edge.

quick edit: it is, in fact, possible to screw up with the RT, I've done it. But if you pay a modicum of attention, it's hard to mess up
Possible to screw up with anything

Chances are lower with an RT than an evo, but they're not 0.
 

AlpsSkidad

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I’ve been using the RT for the past 3-4 years on the kids race skis. Much faster way to tune with good repeatable results. I have all 3 wheels but rarely use anything but medium. Once a week I usually just do 2 passes and then finish off with a yellow ( I think that’s a 400) diamond stone. My only complaint is that I didnt really like managing the cord and transformer while using it but used it that way for 3 years. This year I bought the add on battery option. What a difference it makes to me.
 

KingGrump

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You can also get an "extra coarse" wheel which is "Perfect for tuning dull skis and setting edge angles."


Thanks for the heads up.
I may as well pick up one of those for my next pair of "premium" skis.
 

KingGrump

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Did you just leave the large base bevel?

What large base bevel?
One pair came with structure on the steel base edge - no bevel. Not to mention a wicked huge burr on the base edge.
All of them had variable base bevel. Every foot or two. :nono:

I always blended in the base and side edge bevels at both the tip and tail into the bevel in the main part of the ski. That appeared to do the trick. The skis were acceptable. Will geet a base grind if the skis act up.

All three pairs had the same variable side edge bevel too - every foot or two. Only in the front of the ski ahead of the toe binding. :nono:
 

Dave Marshak

All Time World Champion
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The consensus is that the RT is better than the EVO but I like the Swix tool. I can hold the ski edge up without clamping, so I think I’m faster with the EVO. It can fall off the edge but it’s not powerful enough to do much damage. I put a drill battery on mine which was a great improvement. The next step is to figure out how to attach the battery in a way that allows the tool to balance on a ski that’s held at a 30 degree angle. That will make it as easy to use as a RT.

dm
 

Atomicman

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I will rip back the side wall prior to resetting edge angle with the Razortune. Don't want the side wall to gum up the grinding wheels.
I'll start with the coarse wheel for couple passes and inspect the edge for progress. I'll use the coarse wheel to complete the reset the side edge before switching to the medium wheel for the finishing cut. I do not use the fine wheel much.

The number of passes required to reset the edge angle will be dependent on the condition of the ski. Processed six new pairs of skis this early season. The three "premium" skis required at least 6 passes with the coarse stone to reset most of the ski. On one pair, the front of the ski (toe binding forward) required 12 passes with the coarse stone to get it done. The other two pairs needed additional passes for the front part of the ski for the reset. The edge finish on these skis were inconsistent to say the very least. I believe the word atrocious comes to mine.

The first edge reset on a pair of M5, 2 passes with the coarse stone gave a perfect edge. So I did the remaining edges with the medium stone only. The factory edge angle was spot on. The same story with a pair of Secret and a pair of Kenja.
They make an extra coarse wheel now!
 

Atomicman

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Razor tune works great. I have used it for a few years now! The biggest deal is simply to to be very careful that the wheel is fully engaged flat on the edge when you fire the machine up and also to start it as close to the contact point at the tip as possible. At the tail you just continue straight off the tail. You can move the machine back and forth as you are tuning or one direction and you can go tip to tail or tail to tip. Very easy to do this and very easy to use, gravity is your friend as it lies on the base, ski base up across the base and the wheel/motor assembly is spring loaded so you it follows the curvature of the ski and is always in proper contact with the edge. . Also because only 1/2 the wheel contacts the edge and it spins downward it does not raise a burr.

The finish is a extremely good, an excellent ceramic disc finish. DO NOT polish out the grind pattern in the the side edge. This is the same look the edge of your your skis come with from the factory or from a Wintersteiger Trimjet ceramic disc finish. I don't think it makes any difference that the machine is $700 and others are $2000. It is a ceramic disc rotating against the edge. The price of the machine once you are in a category above junk (a dremel tool base system) the results are the same. This ceramic disc pattern helps to make the edge nice and grippy. If you want it polished more use their finer polishing wheel. The medium wheel is more for daily tuning and only takes off about 1/10,000" of the edge. They have an extra coarse wheel for initially setting the edge. As KG said you still must pull the side wall back particularly if you are imparting a 3 degree. The battery pack is a must have!

A respirator mask is a requirement, unless you want ultra tiny metal particles mixed in with your COVID!:ogbiggrin::ogbiggrin::ogbiggrin:
 
Last edited:

DocGKR

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Great comments above. I too switched to a Razor Tune this season--definitely faster than hand files and stones. As some commented above, I get an initial grind and bevels done for race skis by a competent competition-oriented shop, then use the RT for daily tunes the rest of the year.
 

SKIDADL

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I've been using the Swix Evo unit for the last two seasons with reasonable results but looking seriously to switch over to the Razor Tune. Evo produces a good edge but I find it can periodically jump due to cord catching or any imperfections on the ski slowing the machine to a stop and that can cause issues. Razor Tune looks to be more consistent/fool proof.
Before making the plunge I have a question regarding proper vices for the Razor Tune. The majority of the tuning I will be doing is on a new pair of Head e-Rally's - they do not have a race plate. Currently I use a set of Toko/Ski Man vices - the centre vice grabs onto the binding for grip as there is no race plate.
So the question of the day is - does anybody have any guidance on vices when using the Razor Tune? I notice on the RT demo video they use a wider- mouthed centre vice that is grabbing a race plate. I am imaging that having a good hold via the centre vice will be critical in order to prevent ski movement when using the RT. How about wheel clearance around the vices?
Any suggestions appreciated.
 

KingGrump

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So the question of the day is - does anybody have any guidance on vices when using the Razor Tune? I notice on the RT demo video they use a wider- mouthed centre vice that is grabbing a race plate. I am imaging that having a good hold via the centre vice will be critical in order to prevent ski movement when using the RT. How about wheel clearance around the vices?
Any suggestions appreciated.

I used either a Winterstieger or Swix vise for tuning. Both looks like the image below (different color). I also never use the center piece for tuning unless the skis being do not have a flat top sheet. Keep the rubber pads on the end tower clean and it will be fine.

1646237451320.png
 

Atomicman

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I used either a Winterstieger or Swix vise for tuning. Both looks like the image below (different color). I also never use the center piece for tuning unless the skis being do not have a flat top sheet. Keep the rubber pads on the end tower clean and it will be fine.

View attachment 161603
I have the same! I always use the center Vise.
 

Dave Marshak

All Time World Champion
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i don't use a vise because I work outside on a permanent bench I set up, and I think a vise would rust away before the end of the season. Holding the ski base up in a simple slot is easier than clamping a vise. and it's easy enough to keep the EVO on the edge if you hold the ski at a 30 degree angle. Adding a battery to it sealed the deal. YMMV

dm
 

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