Mounting Bindings with Paper Templates

[pais alto]

I wonder how many people have used a drill press to mount bindings?

I do all the time. I picked up a drill press for like $40 at a garage sale to do my skis and for a number of years I’ve done skis for friends and the patrollers I worked with. It sure makes things easier, and less stressful.

 

[MacO512]

I wonder how many people have used a drill press to mount bindings?

I would think very many? If I had never read anything online on how to mount bindings that's what I'd immediately think to use. Would be super nervous of holding a drill freehand.

Maybe your point is a number of people would never think to use a drill press, but it's the standard tool if you want accurate straight holes.

 

[pais alto]

Just a small picture selection of skis I used a drill press to mount.

 

[Noodler]

A couple things I'm doing differently:

1. A 5/32" with a shaft collar set to a depth of 9.5mm. Ski binding drill bits (Tognar) are turned on a lathe, which removes the the side cutting edge. Real drill bits just drill better.
   • https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/2798/2908A37
   • https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1457/9414T4
2. No more wasting time with pilot holes. A good counter punch followed up with this 5/32" is all that is needed.

Note the Moment Commander 92s.

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The step you're missing is the use of a countersink tool. If you've ever been burned by volcano-ing of your drilled holes, you would understand. I always countersink all the drilled holes before mounting the bindings. This ensures that the bindings easily, and perfectly, sit on the top surface on the ski without any unintended gaps.

 

[tomahawkins]

I would think very many? If I had never read anything online on how to mount bindings that's what I'd immediately think to use. Would be super nervous of holding a drill freehand.

Maybe your point is a number of people would never think to use a drill press, but it's the standard tool if you want accurate straight holes.

The key is an accurate center punch. After that, everything's easy. The holes don't have to be perfectly straight, but they do need to be in the right location.

In some regards, a hand drill can be more accurate: a hand drill easily locks on to the center punch, whereas with a drill press, the ski needs to drag across the table to get in alignment.

 

[Noodler]

The key is an accurate center punch. After that, everything's easy. The holes don't have to be perfectly straight, but they do need to be in the right location.

In some regards, a hand drill can be more accurate: a hand drill easily locks on to the center punch, whereas with a drill press, the ski needs to drag across the table to get in alignment.

Agreed. The only time a drill press is needed (and superior) is for mounting of inserts. Having the inserts be perfectly aligned is critical to success with that setup. If they're even slightly off-center or "tilted" vertically, it becomes a major exercise in frustration. Machine screws are unforgiving of these errors.

 

[tomahawkins]

The step you're missing is the use of a countersink tool. If you've ever been burned by volcano-ing of your drilled holes, you would understand. I always countersink all the drilled holes before mounting the bindings. This ensures that the bindings easily, and perfectly, sit on the top surface on the ski without any unintended gaps.

Good point. I should mention that I always tap the holes so volcanoing is not an issue. Sometimes I trim off the raised ridges of the hole with a sharp chisel, but usually leave them on -- extra sealant: it's like a poppet valve with the binding base.

A question sometimes arises: Should I first tap a hole on skis without metal? No. You shouldn't ski skis without metal.

 

[Noodler]

Good point. I should mention that I always tap the holes so volcanoing is not an issue. Sometimes I trim off the raised ridges of the hole with a sharp chisel, but usually leave them on -- extra sealant: it's like a poppet valve with the binding base.

A question sometimes arises: Should I first tap a hole on skis without metal? No. You shouldn't ski skis without metal.

I tap all holes too (metal or no metal), volcano-ing can still be an issue even with tapping.

 

[tomahawkins]

Just a small picture selection of skis I used a drill press to mount.
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What I appreciate about this is a beer bottle made it into every picture.

 

[mdf]

I wonder how many people have used a drill press to mount bindings?

Me too. I bought the one Tom is showing. It is small and portable, but big enough for things i actually do. A full size press would be an immovable hassle.

The first pair I ever mounted I did at work with a 1950s era Bridgeport milling machine. Talk about overkill! But it was nice to dial the head directly over the punched dot.

 

[tomahawkins]

Me too. I bought the one Tom is showing. It is small and portable, but big enough for things i actually do. A full size press would be an immovable hassle.

The first pair I ever mounted I did at work with a 1950s era Bridgeport milling machine. Talk about overkill! But it was nice to dial the head directly over the punched dot.

That's awesome. How did you compensate for tool deformation?

 

[SlideWright]

Agreed. The only time a drill press is needed (and superior) is for mounting of inserts. Having the inserts be perfectly aligned is critical to success with that setup. If they're even slightly off-center or "tilted" vertically, it becomes a major exercise in frustration. Machine screws are unforgiving of these errors.

If a little off, you can use the binding to align the inserts. Mount the binding without torquing, while the epoxy is wet and let cure.

 

[pchewn]

Plan to use epoxy on base and screws too. Epoxy might act as a mild threading lubricant leading to additional torque but you'd think the 4nm figure assumes there is epoxy/glue.

What do you mean by using epoxy on base? Surely you are not intending on applying epoxy to the base of the ski, nor on the topsheet to "hold" the binding to the ski?

The common practice is to put a few drops into the screw holes immediately before installing the screws. And there are better glues than epoxy for this purpose.

 

[Bill Talbot]

Here's a slideshow outlining how I mount bindings with paper templates. I'm not a ski tech so don't take this as a definitive how-to; it's just a procedure that has worked well for me. There's always room for improvement, so if you have suggestions, please offer them up. I like the procedure because there is no measurement involved -- aside from marking the 9.5mm depth on the drill bits. I find it yields a high degree of accuracy: the printer is probably the greatest source of error in the process. As I go through the steps I'll add links to the various tools I find helpful.

If you are considering mounting your own bindings, please be aware of the risk you are undertaking. I recommend practicing several mounts on 2x4s before drilling into the real thing. It's also advisable to take the finished product into the shop for mount and setting verification.

I have used other available templates with success, but I decided to create my own, mostly for the fun of it, but also because I have found it difficult to cut templates to the right boot sole length (BSL) and join the templates together with good alignment. For this reason, I wrote a program to compute hole locations given a binding and BSL, while aligning the two pages is made easier with thin alignment marks that span the full page ensuring a straight template centerline. I also print two templates per set since center punching is destructive. The templates are available on my github. If you don't mind some Haskell programming you can also use the program to do things like compare holes locations of varying bindings, BSLs, and mount points, in case you are considering the optimal placement for a remount:

GitHub - tomahawkins/binding-templates: Alpine binding mounting templates.

Alpine binding mounting templates. Contribute to tomahawkins/binding-templates development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

For this slideshow I'm mounting a pair of Marker Griffons set at 334mm BSL. Here is the corresponding template:

binding-templates/marker-royal/marker-royal-bsl-334.svg at master · tomahawkins/binding-templates

Alpine binding mounting templates. Contribute to tomahawkins/binding-templates development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

And here it is printed out. Be sure to check correct printer scaling:

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First trim of the corners of one page right through the two alignment marks:

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This allow one page to be aligned with the other:

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When you're satisfied, carefully tape together, front and back:

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The final template prep requires cutting see-through holes at the intersections of the centerlines and the midsole line. We also need to trim the ends so that the centerlines run right to the edge of the paper:

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Now get some skis to mount. I came across a brand new pair of 2016 (?) Head Monster 88s still in plastic being sold out of a scuba shop in Tennessee.
(Dear Head, Please bring back the Monster, preferably with the classic non-hammerhead tip. It's one of the best of all time.)

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Skis mark the suggested mount point in various ways. These Monsters had it on the sidewall:

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Mark you desired mount point with masking tape. I put Xs on one edge so I don't confuse the right edge with the wrong:

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Place the template on the skis with the mount point aligned with the midsole line, view through the holes:

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Now place 3-4 layers of tape on the approximate ski centerline where the template edges land. The extra layers of tape prevent the marking gauge from cutting through and defacing your new pair of skis:

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Mark on the tap where the template edge lands:

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Using a marking gauge, find the center of the ski, repeatedly checking one side and then the other, closing in on the center. I recommend this marking gauge from Lee Valley Tools:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-gauges/75849-veritas-micro-adjust-wheel-marking-gauge?item=05N3631

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Once you have the center, mark the tape using both ski edges. If you have a short turn radius ski, this mark should look like an squashed X, which is okay. With these Monsters (184), it's pretty much a straight line:

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Now align the template on the ski using the front centerline mark, the rear centerline mark, and the midsole / mount point mark:

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Carefully tape the template to the ski. Tape down the see-through hole for better security:

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Now it is time to center punch. I highly recommend getting an optical center punch: they provide good accuracy and they make you feel like a submarine captain peering through a periscope. I use this one by Fowler:

Fowler On-Mark Optical Center Punch

ÒFowler

www.fowlerprecision.com

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Target in sight:

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Target acquired!

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Fire! (Replace the optical eyepiece with the punch and wack it with a hammer.):

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All marks punched:

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Remove all the templates and tape:

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Center punching is more than just marks. It dimples the surface allowing a drill bit to find the hole center without wandering. I use a 1/16" bit as a pilot hole:

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The main bit is 5/32", which is just under the standard 4.1mm and still large enough to be tapped. Mark the correct depth on the bits with tape; in this case, 9.5 mm:

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Until recently I have hand drilled the pilot and main holes. However, I just got this mini drill press to make the work easier. It's from Grizzly, but it is a Chinese make found under a number of different brands:

Variable-Speed Mini Benchtop Drill Press

<h1>T32006 Variable-Speed Mini Benchtop Drill Press</h1> <h2>Better than a hand-held drill for making accurate 90° holes.</h2> <p>Whether you are making doll furniture, model train sets, jewelry or custom ammunition, this space-saving machine is just what you need for your delicate work.</p>...

www.grizzly.com

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Set the correct depth for the pilot holes:

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Drill the pilots. Unlike with a hand drill, I've found that the drill press takes more effort to get good alignment, but once you do, it's much easier to drill:

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Next set the depth with the main bit and drill. If the ski can slide freely on the table surface, the main bit will automatically find and align with the pilot hole:

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Holes drilled!

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Hole tapping next. I use a tap from Binding Freedom and a long tap wrench from Starrett:

12AB3 Alpine Tap TIN coated

The original inserts for skis, made in america and the best option for getting the most out of your skis and bindings. We also offer Jigarex and any tools you could need for traditional mounts as well.

www.bindingfreedom.com

93E T-Handle Tap Wrench

The Starrett 93 T-Handle Tap Wrench is for holding taps, drills, reamers and other small tools to be turned by hand. It is properly heat treated to withstand ordinary shop use. The jaw conforms to the tool being held, making it rigid and less apt to loosen. The wrench has a sliding handle that...

www.starrett.com

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With holes tapped, mix and add epoxy:

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And mount:

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I felt a little bad pulling off this weathered sticker, thinking, is this the last new '16 Monster to be found in the wild?

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Wait a few hours:

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Then go ski! (My buddy with Mt Shuksan in the background. The newly mounted Monsters are on my feet.):

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This is over thinking a binding mount to the highest level. You might have just a little bit too much free time on your hands...

 

[cantunamunch]

You might have just a little bit too much free time on your hands...

Bah. Free time just means you think about something else.

 

[Noodler]

If a little off, you can use the binding to align the inserts. Mount the binding without torquing, while the epoxy is wet and let cure.

Very interesting idea of of actually mounting the binding to the inserts while the epoxy is still setting up. You sir, get the gold star for the week.

 

[Uncle-A]

I would think very many? If I had never read anything online on how to mount bindings that's what I'd immediately think to use. Would be super nervous of holding a drill freehand.

Maybe your point is a number of people would never think to use a drill press, but it's the standard tool if you want accurate straight holes.

Actually, in the four different ski shops I worked none of them ever used a drill press. I would like to ask any of our members that mounted binding for a living if the shop they worked ever used a drill press to mount bindings? My guess is the answer would be no. Because shops use drilling jigs, electric hand drills, and drill bits that they get from the binding manufacturers. Maybe if you are an unsure home mounting person you need a drill press to limit the depth of the hole so you don't drill all the way through the ski.

 

[mdf]

I've never used a jig. Don't they enforce verticality? Before the press, I had this

 

[cantunamunch]

I've never used a jig. Don't they enforce verticality?

Only if the jig sits squarely and all the way down on the ski. Plenty of vertically d*rked up mounts from jigs not sitting flush, creeping up, otherwise askew.

And, of course, verticality to the topsheet is not the same as verticality of the drill press.

 

[pais alto]

Actually, in the four different ski shops I worked none of them ever used a drill press. I would like to ask any of our members that mounted binding for a living if the shop they worked ever used a drill press to mount bindings? My guess is the answer would be no. Because shops use drilling jigs, electric hand drills, and drill bits that they get from the binding manufacturers. Maybe if you are an unsure home mounting person you need a drill press to limit the depth of the hole so you don't drill all the way through the ski.

Never used a drill press when I worked at a shop, manufacturers‘ jigs instead with shouldered bits.

I don’t know why some people get so bent out of shape about using a drill press. I‘m totally not saying you need one but my $40 drill press is a lot cheaper than any one jig, and I’m not about to buy multiple jigs. I just use a punch to mark the holes location, put a Tognar bit in the press, and bam bam bam bam. Voilá. It’s so much easier, quicker, pretty f’n accurate, and stress free compared to freehand. And it’s not like no one has screwed up a mount in a shop with a jig.

I have done a lot of home mounting, as I mentioned upthread.

Edit: more pictures of mounts I’ve done for friends…with a drill press.