Mounting Bindings with Paper Templates

[tomahawkins]

I added a template for Tyrolia PowerRails. It's the simplest hole pattern so far; all measurements are either 30 or 100 mm and the spec was literally one line of code:

tyroliaPowerRail = Template $ Pair 30 <$> [100, 200, -100, -200]

Hey! Protectors are cool bindings!

 

[Dr.T]

A big Thank You to @tomahawkins . I just completed mounting Protector PR 13's on my new Peak 98's. Took a while as this was the first time I've mounted bindings so I triple checked everything....... turned out great! Like @Yo Momma I'm a dentist (retired), I'm used to working with tolerances of microns. A millimeter is huge through my surgical loupes.........but this had me a bit stressed! Ha!

 

[Dwight]

GitHub - tomahawkins/binding-templates: Alpine binding mounting templates.

Alpine binding mounting templates. Contribute to tomahawkins/binding-templates development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

How the heck have I missed this resource? Wow, great job!

 

[mdf]

Just a note of appreciation. I have a pair of skis I'm going to use one of your templates on before I leave for Taos.
I used the template on the about-to-be-retired pair and it worked great!

 

[MacO512]

Amazing awesome guide!!!

My printer is scaling by 5% so I'll have to fix that.

Purchased a marking gauge and optical center punch from Amazon. Very cool tools never seen these before;
https://a.co/d/9htBZhs
https://a.co/d/7cxmGzK
Got new binding screws for rear (prior ones tore out) from slidewright.com
Got 3.6x9.5 drill bit from Utahskigear.com (as well as 4.1x9.5 for possible future metal skis)
The tap is an interesting idea... i have one but probably is for different thread size so I'll read up on that - sounds like its just for metal skis or very hard woods - my in transit Volkl Revolt 104 is wood and I don't think its hard.

I need to buy a cheap drill press but was meaning to get one anyway

Only thing I'm not sure of is the torque - I have read 4nm which is 35in lbs. I have a torque screwdriver so plan to use that. But also have seen 4.5nm (40 in lbs) or 45in lbs (5.2nm). Then also read that skis are all rated up to 5nm - but you want to torque it less.

I really want to find that best exact torque. Had two rear bindings rip out this season which beyond sucked. One I slid about 300 yards down ice and the other had to hike an hour between alta/snowbird in 3 feet of powder - then long stretches of one legged skiing for both. Lucky it wasn't worse or a brutal injury.

Plan to use epoxy on base and screws too. Epoxy might act as a mild threading lubricant leading to additional torque but you'd think the 4nm figure assumes there is epoxy/glue.

 

[MacO512]

Changed printing to 103% scaling and minimum borders now the templates came out accurate

 

[MacO512]

Original Post link for the tap wrench has changed... here is the update https://www.starrett.com/details?cat-no=93E

 

[MacO512]

That bindingfreedom.com site that has the tap is very interesting with other options such as threaded inserts for using machine screws to mount.... allows changing bindings multiple times just like snowboards.

Could add second set of mount holes on my Revolt 104 so one setup front for park/switch skiing and a back mount position 3cm back for powder. Also could check torque every ski trip to lessen risk binding ripping off. I guess insert could still fail though... might just be adding an extra failure point.

Great idea though never seen this before... apologies for thread derail

 

[ARL67]

My mounting tools from Tognar should arrive later this week.

Any thoughts on where to get the Warden 13 MNC Demo template as I don't see it in Tomahawkins downloads

 

[Uncle-A]

Amazing awesome guide!!!

My printer is scaling by 5% so I'll have to fix that.

Purchased a marking gauge and optical center punch from Amazon. Very cool tools never seen these before;
https://a.co/d/9htBZhs
https://a.co/d/7cxmGzK
Got new binding screws for rear (prior ones tore out) from slidewright.com
Got 3.6x9.5 drill bit from Utahskigear.com (as well as 4.1x9.5 for possible future metal skis)
The tap is an interesting idea... i have one but probably is for different thread size so I'll read up on that - sounds like its just for metal skis or very hard woods - my in transit Volkl Revolt 104 is wood and I don't think its hard.

I need to buy a cheap drill press but was meaning to get one anyway

Only thing I'm not sure of is the torque - I have read 4nm which is 35in lbs. I have a torque screwdriver so plan to use that. But also have seen 4.5nm (40 in lbs) or 45in lbs (5.2nm). Then also read that skis are all rated up to 5nm - but you want to torque it less.

I really want to find that best exact torque. Had two rear bindings rip out this season which beyond sucked. One I slid about 300 yards down ice and the other had to hike an hour between alta/snowbird in 3 feet of powder - then long stretches of one legged skiing for both. Lucky it wasn't worse or a brutal injury.

Plan to use epoxy on base and screws too. Epoxy might act as a mild threading lubricant leading to additional torque but you'd think the 4nm figure assumes there is epoxy/glue.

That is quite a list of tools, I am guessing you already have one but one of the most important tools you have not mentioned is a basic PZ3 screw driver or bit. Like I said I am guessing you already have one.

 

[Yo Momma]

I tap about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the hole w/ an old screw and use a lg countersink bit to prep the hole to avoid space between the binding and ski. Also epoxy is fine but I use Roo Clear from Tognar.... they explain why on Tognar if you call them. Never an issue. As many have stated 4.1 for metal and 3.6 for non. I've never felt the need for a drill press. If you're handy just eyeball it and it's fine as this process is not super precise .... compared to dentistry right @Dr.T ?

After mounting my own setups for many years now, I can't believe how easy this process is!

I may have posted this earlier but I use this video pt 1 & 2 and the TGR templates as it's super easy to follow:

 

[SlideWright]

Any thoughts on where to get the Warden 13 MNC Demo template as I don't see it in Tomahawkins downloads

I'll look later for a template or could make one. Is the MNC demo any different than the Warden 13 Demo? I used this for the basis of our Binding Layout tools:

That bindingfreedom.com site that has the tap is very interesting with other options such as threaded inserts for using machine screws to mount.... allows changing bindings multiple times just like snowboards.

Could add second set of mount holes on my Revolt 104 so one setup front for park/switch skiing and a back mount position 3cm back for powder. Also could check torque every ski trip to lessen risk binding ripping off. I guess insert could still fail though... might just be adding an extra failure point.

Great idea though never seen this before... apologies for thread derail

Binding Freedom inserts have been around for a while. There's a bunch of info on binding mounting, inserts, screws, tools, etc in our Tuning Tips.

For ski finding ski center our centering tool is very popular.

 

[ARL67]

Thanks SlideWright, I'm pretty sure there is only one Warden 13 Demo (MNC)

 

[SlideWright]

Found these from another source:

Loading…

www.slidewright.com

Loading…

www.slidewright.com

As usual, perform a test mount on a scrap piece of wood to test.

 

[ARL67]

^^^ thanks, I just searched too and found them on TGR as well:

Salomon Warden 13 MNC *DEMO* paper template?

Update 2023-01-31 Someone noticed that the toe spacing was printed as 32mm, but actually measured 30mm. Since 30mm was the correct spacing, updated the template to simply reflect the actual 30mm spacing. No physical dimension changes, only fixed a typo. Other details: Occasionally someone...

www.tetongravity.com

 

[MacO512]

That is quite a list of tools, I am guessing you already have one but one of the most important tools you have not mentioned is a basic PZ3 screw driver or bit. Like I said I am guessing you already have one.

Yes I have one nice big one as well as a set of bits. You are correct, its a must have to maintain skis and adjust your bindings and yes to mount. Regular philips is more likely to strip screws.

Amazon.com

a.co

Loading…

a.co

 

[SlideWright]

^^^ thanks, I just searched too and found them on TGR as well:

Salomon Warden 13 MNC *DEMO* paper template?

Update 2023-01-31 Someone noticed that the toe spacing was printed as 32mm, but actually measured 30mm. Since 30mm was the correct spacing, updated the template to simply reflect the actual 30mm spacing. No physical dimension changes, only fixed a typo. Other details: Occasionally someone...

www.tetongravity.com

Can you let me know how this works? I have the demo layout tool teed up to print, but not added to the store because IIRC, I never received confirmation that is was accurate. TIA

 

[MacO512]

I tap about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the hole w/ an old screw and use a lg countersink bit to prep the hole to avoid space between the binding and ski. Also epoxy is fine but I use Roo Clear from Tognar.... they explain why on Tognar if you call them. Never an issue. As many have stated 4.1 for metal and 3.6 for non. I've never felt the need for a drill press. If you're handy just eyeball it and it's fine as this process is not super precise .... compared to dentistry right @Dr.T ?

After mounting my own setups for many years now, I can't believe how easy this process is!

I may have posted this earlier but I use this video pt 1 & 2 and the TGR templates as it's super easy to follow:

If you got a steady hand a freehand drill is likely fine. Yeah I don't think someone with dentist skills can relate to a DIY person or even general handyman. I have a super shaky non straight hand when I drill. Doesn't matter at all for framing or such where tolerances within an 1/8th of an inch are beyond fine. But skis when were talking about being within fractions of a mm..... A drill press just seems like a good precaution to make sure I don't end up drilling at an angle or wobble and enlarge the hole.

 

[Yo Momma]

I have the @SlideWright centering tool and it works great. It's a nice piece of equipment and makes the centering process super easy.

 

[SlideWright]

If you got a steady hand a freehand drill is likely fine. Yeah I don't think someone with dentist skills can relate to a DIY person or even general handyman. I have a super shaky non straight hand when I drill. Doesn't matter at all for framing or such where tolerances within an 1/8th of an inch are beyond fine. But skis when were talking about being within fractions of a mm..... A drill press just seems like a good precaution to make sure I don't end up drilling at an angle or wobble and enlarge the hole.

Or a drill guide.