Let me jump into the questions that are more or less factual:
5. The BOA cable doesn't unwind when the BOA dial comes off its baseplate, so the amount of dangle that will actually happen isn't enough to get caught under your ski. It will be equal to the length of cable coming out of dial and going to the first deviation point (couple of centimeters).
6. Internal gearing is fully metal (not plastic like snowboard or bike versions, which also mean no gear slipping), the stainless cable is has a tensile strength of 250+kg. But even if it wears out or breaks for any reason whatsoever, you'll get free replacements for life.
7. There is no need to "send anything in" for repair. If any part breaks or doesn't work correctly, any shop that sell BOA boots will provide you with free parts. BOA themselves will deliver parts to you within 48 hours of a problem. There are no proprietary tools required for changing out any of the BOA parts and swapping out any parts is far easier than changing a riveted-on buckle.
If the thought of BOA breaking and ruining your day is so paramount, then you can always buy a replacement system/part in advance to have as a spare in order to ensure that you don't miss an hour of skiing. I honestly wouldn't dream of taking my mountain bike on any sort of holiday trip without certain spare parts. There's no way local shops would stock my specific derailleur hanger or shock mount bolt. If any of those parts broke, my holiday would be seriously delayed, possibly ruined (I'm not renting) so it's on me to be prepared to keep things going.
5. Yes I understand this completely. But it appears there's still about 4-6 inches of unwound cable, depending how much you've wound the cable, from the first deviation point. Whether the dial will touch the snow depends on the edge angle. On a standing position, it appears it won't dangle past below the base of boot or top of binding level, so it is "safe". But if you are at an angle, it might. Somebody mathematically inclined could probably do the calculation for us. Will a 4-6 inch dangler touch the snow if the ski is at an angle of, say, 45 degrees?
6. The metal parts weren't my concern, but the plastic housing of the metal dial and the plastic interface on the boot that clicks to the dial. From experience, parts that click into place that are plastic can be prone to wear or breakage.
7. I just realised now why it is "triggering" for me to have to send a boot in for warranty. The boot is the foundation of my ski days. It is the rock from which I built this hobby. Everything rises and emanates from the ski boot. To have to send it away is tantamount cutting of my limb. While I wait for doctors to sew it back on, I will be useless.
This is so because a ski boot is custom. There's no replacement for it.
For this season, my jacket, pants, and ski will be (semi) custom as well. But with those, if they ever get damaged, the manufacturer could just ring up my customisations in my profile and they can manufacture the replacement and ship it to me and it will be close to the same as my damaged jacket/pants/ski. And I could compromise with a temporary cheapo jacket and pants and it wouldn't ruin my ski day. For the ski, it would probably be triggering, but I can just take the opportunity to demo other skis while waiting for a warranty replacement.
With the boot, there's no compromise, replacement or substitute. And if the bootmaker has to recreate my customisations, it will be more physically involved as I have to be at the boot shop going through the motions of the tedious bootfitting process again.
Your suggestion to just buy a spare cable/dial/deviation point is well and good. But can I buy a spare ski-boot-clicky-interface? I still don't know how the dial/boot-click- interface works and if anybody has the answer let us know. Is the plastic interface (that clicks into the dial) a part of the boot mold? Or is it screwed-on part that is replaceable in case it gets chipped or damaged?
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